Military Memorial Flag CasesRichard MFDC (524)    Richard MFDC   Military Flag Display Cases Displaying A Memorial Flag CorrectlyPosted Friday, February 29, 2008 (182 days 17 hours ago.) Viewed 163 times. Here is how to fold a Burial Flag so that the End result will give you that perfect look. -For respect of our flag and what it stands for- Do Not put flag on floor! -Just to let you know: There is no disrespect involved in refolding a Memorial Flag.- * This is a two person task.* First have flag unfolded and one person at each end of flag (one near the stripes and one at the stars.) 1)Fold flag in half (long ways) two times. You will now have a long rectangle (approx. 15 or 16 inches wide and 9'6" long).(Brass ring holes up and to the right of the folders view) 2)Start at the "stripes" end and fold from bottom right, up towards the left to create a triangle. Continue folding flag (end over end) until you have "less than" a full fold left over. Place the excess in the crease (flag layers) to keep flag together. If you turn this flag over and see three full star on the bottom and One on top (with portions of others), you are done. If your stars do not look like this (most wont), please read on. *Not all burial flags are exactly 5 foot by 9 1/2 foot. They very considerably. This first step will define where the stars will set in your triangle on the last fold. Please pay attention. 2a) On this First fold, insted of a full fold make a 3/4 fold. If your overall width is 15" make the first fold at 13" . (see chart for details,click on my link below, go to Articles-Flag Displaying) On the chart, this shows A,B,C and D. A is for the first try, how to see where your stars line up. B,C and D show you how to start with a partial fold, then continue the fold until you just have enough for tucking into the crease. Adjust the size of the first fold until you get your stars just the way you want them. The thing about 5' x 9.5' burial flags are that they are manufactured from various companies. These companies may start with 5'x9.5' measurements, but after turning and sewing the ends they usually are various sizes. I have 4 burial flags and none of them are the same measurements. Thank you for reading and email me from my site if you have any questions. Richard (MFDC) ( Flag Case Displays ) 
Permalink Comments (2) Displaying Military Medals In Shadow BoxPosted Wednesday, January 23, 2008 (219 days 12 hours ago.) Viewed 887 times. First of all, as the recipient of the medals, think about how the military is structured. 1) Very Orderly; everything has a place. 2) Rank; (Army Example) From General to Private.
When you are placing the items in a shadow box or other display I would recommend placing the Insignia on top followed by the Medals (decorations) (from highest honor downwards). Then the Ribbons, then the Badges, (combat inf.badge, parachute badge, medical field badge, then rifle badges, bayonet badge etc). Then place the Patch of the division that your soldier fought or served with. Then your loved ones Photo. This type of "order" is what is generally found when displaying medals. What type of "lay out" you choose, is totally up to you. There is no specific procedure for the layout. These all don't have to be in rows (One below the other) you can group these any way you like. As long as each item (medals,badges,ribbons,etc.) stay grouped with each other. Or as I was told: "the format of the display should be such that each item can be clearly observed and the like items are with like items." (military.com/forum) Example as follows: Korean War Veteran, Jan. '51-Dec. '51 Special Operations, 8th Army G-3 Unit. Decorations; One silver star, two bronze stars, and two purple hearts. Multiple Ribbons and Badges. *You may go to my site (listed below),go to Articles-(Displaying Medals), and see the Chart that I have made to give you a better idea of how I would set one up.* As previously stated, you can place the items anyway you like as long as the "like items stay grouped with like items". You can quarter your shadow box off and have the photo of your loved one in the center, slightly raised so that it stands out from the rest. The layout is purely a personal choice. If you would like for me to build you a shadow box, that would be my honor. Just email me through my web site, Military Flag Display Case If you have any questions, please ask. If I don't know the answer, I bet I can find someone who does. Take Care and God Bless Richard (MFDC) Below are links to the areas I researched. They explain about the medal, when it originated, the NSN # (for replacement). The medals are shown in the order of highest honors and below. From left to right unless they are listed one below the other. This first link has the most information about the medals. Of the three departments of the Military that I spoke with this is the accepted order in which all awards are to be placed when displayed. No information was given on the exact location of any one award, badge, insignia or patch. You may display them in any way you wish as long as, "Like items stay with like items" and they are presented from highest honors and below. (Army/Airforce) (Navy) (Coastguard) (Marines) MilitaryFlagDisplayCase.Com
Permalink Comments (0) A Guide To Purchasing a Quality Flag Display CasePosted Monday, December 31, 2007 (242 days 14 hours ago.) Viewed 14 times. A Military or Memorial flag case is a very personal item purchased to honor and display the presentation flag of a loved one and should be made to last. When searching for a flag display case, what should you look for? Appearance, style, and price are usually the key factors involved in making the purchase. Don't forget the old adage, "You get what you pay for." A flag case should be designed to protect the memorial flag it holds and be built to last for generations. The Three Basic Types of Display Cases: 1. The "Made to Last for Awhile" Model. Thin, poorly constructed and made of compressed paper with a wood laminate applied and a Plexiglas front. Cases are constructed with glue and staples. Priced accordingly. 2. The "Might Last a While Longer" Model. Made from compressed wood particles with a wood-like finish (laminate) applied to it. This flag case usually has a Plexiglas front and uses inferior construction methods. Inexpensively priced. 3. The "Made to Last for Generations" Model. Solid wood flag display cases with glass fronts. (This includes both softwoods & hardwoods). These cases are both strong and beautiful. Prices vary depending on styles, types of wood used and construction methods. There are two categories of this type of case. a. Cases that are mass-produced. (Generally overseas) These cases are often made from inferior wood and construction techniques. b. Handcrafted, Made in the USA, by woodworkers who are serious about their craft and use superior products and construction methods. A quality flag case should be crafted from solid wood and constructed with wood screws, brad nails and/or dovetailing. (A process where two pieces of wood are fingerjointed together.) This type of construction adds strength and durability to the flag case. Glass fronts are recommended, as Plexiglas is prone to scratching. Cases fronted with glass look more professional and glass won't discolor or scratch. Cases made from compressed wood or paper will start to break down with time. These cases can warp and the laminate may begin to peel when subjected to high humidity or if they get wet. Repeated moving or handling can cause the cases to become loose and ultimately fall apart. Buy from a reputable dealer. Choose someone who is willing to listen and answer your questions and who will stand by their product. At Military Flag Display Cases we guarantee not just our products, but your satisfaction as well. All cases, shadowboxes and certificate holders are handcrafted from solid wood and have glass fronts. Our attention to detail and artistry show in the finished product. MFDC flag cases will keep and protect your military or memorial flag for years to come. Thank you for taking the time to read this. Have a Blessed Day. Richard (MFDC) http://www.militaryflagdisplaycase.com
Permalink Comments (0) Staining Your Wood PiecesPosted Wednesday, November 14, 2007 (289 days 10 hours ago.) Viewed 35 times. Staining Oil based,water based, Gels and Pastel stains. Dye's v.s. stains, fillers Supplies and Tip's Basic wood types: * Softwoods- Pine, Fir and Cedar. (etc.) * Hardwoods- Oak, Beech, Ash, Elm, Birch and Walnut.(etc.) * The differences between them and how that will effect your overall project: This is sometimes confusing because you have; - Box wood and Aspen: A very soft Hardwood. - Douglas Fir: A very hard Softwood. Don't be concerned with the names "Hardwood or Softwood" we are looking at the characteristics of the wood itself. If the wood has uneven wood grain, or blotchy patterns to it, chances are it is a softwood. When you stain it, it will stain unevenly. You may want this, to let the stain enhance the natural beauty of the wood. If you do not want this, place a pre-stain wood conditioner on your wood. It seeps into the wood fibers so that the wood will stain evenly. (With this product, I am not sure how dark of a stain, the wood can ultimately be, when finished.) Check with the manufacturer. If the wood has a consistent flow or pattern to the grain, it's probably a hardwood. Use whatever stain you wish to enhance the wood grain. I found out that hardwood such as Oak, may take a few more coatings of stain than softwood,(Pine,Poplar etc.) but the results are still very pleasing. When I am looking for wood, I look for a piece that is unique, within itself. It does not matter if it is "soft" or "hard". Preparing wood for staining: With the selected piece(s) at hand, check to make sure the wood is free of dirt, grease etc. Drawing on a mental image of what you want to create, you have to decide what type of sand paper you should use. The lower the # grit, the rougher the wood will be, the more stain will absorb into the wood and the darker your project piece will be. (And that is on the first application) The opposite is true as well. The higher the # grit, the smoother the wood will be, the less will absorb into the wood and the results are a lighter stained project piece. I usually (for flat surfaced pieces) use a lower grit sand paper (60 or 80) to remove any blemishes and scuff's. Next I will use a higher grit# (100 or 120). I try to keep in mind what depth of stain I am looking for in my finished project piece. If I want a finished (med.) depth of stain, I will stop with the 100 or 120 grit. If I want it lighter, I will go with a higher grit number. You can go with a high grit number (200 or more) and add multiple coats of stain. This is fine. You should experiment on a scrap piece of wood to see what is right for you. When sanding is complete, wipe down wood with damp cloth. Making sure wood is free from any debris. Staining your wood: Put your rubber gloves on. Make sure stain is stirred well. Using a sponge, brush, rag or clean cloth, apply stain to wood generously. Make sure you work in one continuous movement across your wood, going with the grain. Make sure the entire piece is brushed well and evenly. You can wait 5 to 15 minutes for stain to absorb.The longer you wait, the darker it will be. If you are not sure how fast your wood will take the stain, use a clean cloth and wipe on, wipe off. (That quick). This will give you a good idea. It's easier to add more stain, than to have to take it off. Let's say you wait 5 minutes and you are not satisfied with the results. The manufacturer recommends you wait 4 to 6 hours before reapplying. You can, or you can just add it right away and only let it sit for the remaining 10 minutes.(Remember total time of 15 Minutes) Do not let it sit longer than 15 minutes in low to medium humidity. It will start to gum-Up and it makes your project look like a 6 year old did it. (nothing against 6 yr.olds.) If you are working in high humidity areas, you may want to reduce the time to 5 or 8 minutes max. When you are satisfied with the stain color, place the piece(s) on something flat.(work bench, garage floor) and let dry for 6 to 8 hours. Polyurethane: You can use this for protection and beauty. It comes in Satin,Semi-gloss and High or Clear gloss. Make sure that your wood is free of any debris. If you are using a spray can, stay 8-12 inches from piece being sprayed. With long even passes, apply the Poly.(Don't overspray, you will get runs.) Make about two passes and go on to the next piece. After a couple hours, reapply if you wish. If your using the liquid. Wearing your gloves, brush it on with the grain. If you put to much on, you must continue to brush it out. You will have to babysit the wood, making sure that it does not hold bubbles or run. Once it looks like it is setting up, leave it alone for another 4 hours. Then reapply if you wish. Please refer to the Manufacturers instructions and times. Mine are for reference purposes only. Oil based stains: Provides long lasting wood tone color. It penetrates deep into the pores to seal and protect the wood. (It brings out the natural beauty of the wood ) Water based stains: Provides an even stain color. (It will not absorb unevenly like an oil based stain.) Gels: Adds natural colors to a wide range of wood and non-wood products. (It is difficult to get out of cracks or grooves in wood.) Pastels: Oil based wood stain which provides a soft pastel color while highlighting the grain of the wood. (This is a fine product if you wish to accent your decor.) **** The above, In"()" is author's opinion only, try what ever you wish. I only use Minwax products, because I feel they are the best.**** Dye's v.s. Stains: Pigment stains will fill the grains and leave the wood surface with less colorant, whereas dyes will stain the grain and the areas between the grain approximately the same color. Fillers: Fillers can be nice to use when you are filling nail holes or brad holes. However, Using a wood filler usually won't stain the same color as the wood. I try to avoid fillers. I have heard that you can buy some powder form of the filler and add the color of stain that you will be using. Perhaps this will make the overall "filled holes" less noticable. One thing you might try is using some matching colored putty. Fill the holes, let dry. Putty won't get real hard, but let dry for a day. (All this is to be done after staining, and before Polyurethane.) Use some Poly. in a can (spray), and lightly go over you project. Let dry. Repeat spraying at least one more time. Let dry. If you apply to much Poly. the first time, it will break the putty down. If this happens,leave it alone. Do not try to wipe it off. You will smear the Poly. that you have applied. It's easier to chip it off when it's dry, and try again. (Manufacturer recommends applying the Colored Putty after you Polyurethane your piece and it has dried) Supplies: Your choice of wood. Stain, gloves, Polyurethane, brushes, sponges, clean towels, and Putty. (If needed) Do's, Do Not's and Tips: All of the above are listed throughout the instructions. Please follow the Manufacturer's suggestions. However, if they don't work for you, try mine. Thanks for reading. Richard (MFDC)
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