Planting Trees for Your Tomorrow

Planting a tree. It is almost a spiritual experience. Caring for it and watching it grow brings a joy like no other plant in my garden. After decades caring for gardens that ranged from 6 inches to maybe 3 feet high, I finally planted my first trees. That first year was pretty discouraging, since my seedlings were mowed down about 5 times. And while I would never advise "mowing" anything except your lawn, I discovered that trees can recover quickly, and they have a certain magic all their own. The love of trees soaks into your bones like no other plant, and I must confess it makes this gardener feel as though she is in a partnership with God. Trees are poetry.

The next year after my seedling trees were mowed down, they absolutely exploded in my garden. They grew thick and tall, nearly five feet high for my Bradford Pears, and my Crabapples quickly reached for the heavens. In two years my little trees were a good 8 feet tall. In the third year they were a towering 12 feet high, and a good 5 feet wide. This is my seventh year with those same trees, and my Bradford Pear is reaching for the roof of my house. Its white spring blooms are breathtaking to behold. In summer the leathery green, disease resistant foliage provides cover and protection for my favorite birds. Its stunning burgundy fall foliage feeds my soul, even as its little pears feed flocks of migrating birds.

If you are in your twenties, go ahead, plant that slow growing Southern Magnolia. You'll be middle aged by the time you enjoy its fragrant waxy blooms. If you are pushing 50, as I was, you might want to choose a faster growing tree. My Bradford Pears and my Crabapples took about 5 years from seedlings to bloom. My favorite trees are disease resistant and fast growing, with 3 seasons of color and strong winter interest. There is nothing so beautiful, beneath a blanket of snow, as a dark brown or black silhouette against a leaden sky.

Young trees come ready to plant in three basic forms: container grown, balled-and-burlapped (B+B), or as bare-root plants. Container trees can be bought from a reputable nursery in either spring or fall. Balled-and-burlapped trees can also be bought in spring or fall. Bare root trees are usually best bought in spring.

Smaller is Better
Planting large trees is a gamble. They still need time for the roots to get established, and the stress to the tree is painful to watch. Newly planted large trees can languish for years without putting out much growth; whereas the smaller specimen suffers less and recovers quickly. Small trees get established in a single season, and the tops grow fast, often two or more feet per year. Tests have shown that if you plant a large tree and a small tree in the same soil, the small tree will catch up to the big tree in a couple of seasons, and then it will outperform its giant cousin for years to come.

When to Plant
Where winters are mild, and the ground freezes only near the surface, trees can be planted anytime from mid-fall through mid-spring. Where winters are cold and the ground freezes deep, it is best to plant trees in spring, before the tree's new leaves expand. Don't plant a tree in summer, as the heat and wind can make it wilt and weaken, inviting disease.

Depending on how your tree was grown and sold, follow these planting directions:

• Container Trees: Lay the tree on it's side and slowly slide the container off the root ball. If it does not slide off easily, do not pull on the tree. Cut the container off of the root ball. If any large roots are curled up inside the pot, peel them loose, so that you can spread them out in the planting hole or cut them off with sharp pruners. Then gently tease the smaller roots, so that they stick out from the root ball. Measure the root ball and dig a hole no deeper than the top of the ball, but at least as 3 times as wide.
• Balled-and-Burlapped Trees: Burlap and twine made from natural fibers will gradually rot away, and they can be left on the root ball. However you must remove synthetic fabric, plastic ties, and wire. When in doubt, always remove it. Follow the same directions as for a container tree.
• Bare-root Trees: Use sharp pruners to neatly trim away any damaged or broken root-ends. Soak the roots in a bucket of water for a few hours, before planting. I have actually had much success soaking for up to 48 hours; however, remember that the tree roots, as with any bare-root plant, can only absorb so much water before it drowns. So try to stick to the overnight rule. If the tree arrives in the afternoon, then soak it until the following morning. Dig a hole about one foot deep and wide enough that you can spread the roots out in all directions. Do not bend the roots, but spread them out.
• Save the Soil: Save the soil that you dig out, break it up, and reuse to cover the roots. Do not amend the soil or add fertilizer. The small tree will need to adapt to the surrounding soil, and it will do it much quicker if the conditions are more natural. Pampering the young tree can actually weaken it later on, as it tries to adapt and grow.
• Make Some Mud: Newer gardening wisdom says plant that tree in mud. After centering the tree, fill it halfway with soil, then fill the hole with water. Let it soak in. Fill the hole with the rest of the soil to just level with the top of the roots. Pat down, and water again. The mud you make will guard against transplant shock, and give plenty of moisture to allow the tree's roots to adapt.
• Make a Watering Berm: Use any extra soil to create a low berm (or dam) surrounding the outside of the planting hole. Whenever the weather is dry, water by filling the basin repeatedly, or use a "bubbler" to create a small drip-drip overnight. Your tree will reward you for the slow, deep moisture.
• Apply Mulch: Be generous and make at least a three foot circle for a small tree. I often use 10 layers of newspaper, soaked in water, and then mulch 2 - 3 inches of shredded bark. Do not touch the tree with mulch, as that can damage the tender trunk.
• Do Not Prune: The young tree does not need pruning. Allow the tree to grow for a year, and then it is ready to be trained into the shape you desire. Go easy, and prune only for growth direction. Hard pruning can be disastrous for a young tree. No need to stake it. The younger the tree is, the less likely it is to need support.

Easiest Trees to Grow from Seedlings. My favorite trees to grow from seedlings are Eastern Red-bud, Flowering Crab, Kousa Dogwood, Crepe Myrtle, and Bradford Flowering Pear. From first planting to bloom is about 5 years. These trees will take an inexperienced gardener and make you feel like an expert in no time.

I have found growing seedling trees to be thrilling. By the second year they grow so fast that it feels as though the young tree is reaching out for a hug. And when that tree blooms the first time, you just may find that growing trees will become a passion. So go ahead, plant that seedling; then stand back and know that you are taking part in a miracle.