How to Install a Swimming Pool Liner

Above ground pool owners know alot about the time and expense associated with maintaining their backyard oasis, more commonly referred to as the swimming pool. In order to get the maximum life expectancy out of the pool liner itself, great care must be taken to maintain the chemical levels and prevent the build-up of debris and minerals in the pool. But what happens when the pool liner has outlived its usefulness and it is time to replace it before a leak or tear threatens your property?

There are several options available for the homeowner to address this situation. One could pay a professional to install a new liner, but that expense may be prohibitive considering the cost of the liner itself. You could hire the neighbor's kid to do the job, but then a poor installation could damage the liner and cost you more. If you were able to do it yourself and save the money and headaches, would you? The job is not as difficult as it may seem, and I can tell you how!

As always, the first step is preparing the pool for the new installation. This involves draining the water out of the pool, removing the old liner, and making arrangements for the purchase of a new liner. Draining the water will depend on the particular situation of the pool. It may require renting a submersible pump and discharging the water to the nearest storm drain. Be sure to check the local codes for this procedure. Removal of the old liner involves disassembly of the top cap of the pool wall which secures the liner in place. Once this is accomplished, discard the liner in an appropriate manner. Inspect the pool walls for damage or rust which may in turn damage the new liner. Make repairs as necessary to ensure a successful installation. When procuring a new liner, take note of the pool diameter (or length and width as the case may be) and the depth. These figures will determine the correct size of liner to request. Do not assume that the cheapest liner is the best value. The thickness of material ( mil thickness) will correlate to the expected life of the liner as well as the warranty provided. Liners may be available in 20 mil or more. Thicker liners will provide longer service, but will cost more initially. Be wary of a liner that is less than 20 mil, as they are less resistant to tears and chemical damage.

Once you have the pool prepared for the installation, unpack the new liner being careful to remove staples from the box or any other hazards that might damage the vinyl. Follow the manufacturer's guidelines for liner positioning inside the pool itself. Be sure that the liner seams meet where the walls and floor (ground) intersect. Do not be too concerned about minor wrinkles in the liner as these will be smoothed out when the pool is filled.

Once the liner is positioned properly, it is time to prepare for filling. This is accomplished by evenly pulling the liner over the pool walls until just a small area in the center of the liner remains touching the ground. The liner will be draped over the side walls for now. Replace the top cap of the pool wall over the liner but do not fasten it in place. This will support the liner during the filling process. Begin adding water. At regular intervals (when the water level begins to pull on the liner) remove portions of the top cap and allow more of the liner to come in contact with the ground. Do this evenly around the entire circumference of the pool. This will remove any wrinkles in the liner and assure a smooth pool floor. Reposition the top cap for support. Repeat this process until the entire floor of the pool contains water. Check the seams again to be sure they meet at the walls, and make any necessary adjustments. Once the entire pool contains 6" of water, and the liner is satisfactorily positioned, the top cap of the pool wall may be fastened permanently to hold the liner in position. Continue filling the pool to the specified level. As a side note, before starting the pump, it may need to be primed. Avoid running the pump without adequate water as damage could result. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done. You now have your oasis restored and can begin to enjoy the benefits of your pool.

For more great tips on caring for your pool Go HERE!

Ferrel Kenda is an internet author and has 10 years experience in the swimming pool industry

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Comments on this article:

» left by tl from nashvillle (1 year 108 days ago.)

can i use a 24 ft liner in an 18 ft above ground pool?

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» left by Ferrel Kenda ⁽⁸²²⁾ (1 year 107 days ago.)

Hey tl,

Thanks for reading my article.  I hope you found the info useful.  I can only assume that you have cheaper access to a larger liner than your pool will accommodate.  The added expense of a larger liner would not provide any benefit. 

 

Firstly, it would be much more difficult to center the liner properly, not knowing where the walls and floor meet.  Above ground pools are designed so that there is support at the wall/floor seam to provide maximum stability and life of the liner.  If this is a warranted liner, this installation and warranty would not be honored by the manufacturer, so you would be on your own if something went wrong. It is recommended that you use the proper size liner for your pool.

 

Legalities aside, since the liner is larger than recommended and the floor section (which is sometimes a heavier gauge vinyl than the wall material) will project partly up the wall, there is minimal stress on this seam, so there is no reason it will not work as long as the seam is not jeopardized (snagging points or sharp edges) by the wall system.  Keep in mind that you must be willing to take the responsibility for the installation and the added work it will require to position it properly.  Good Luck.

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» left by Summer from South Carolina (213 days 10 hours ago.)

i need inground pool liners

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» left by Anonymous (198 days 22 hours ago.)

Do you remove all the sidewall supports at one time or at sections?

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» left by Ferrel Kenda (198 days 15 hours ago.)

It is more difficult to avoid wrinkles removing them in sections, but easier to keep the liner stable with some sections in place. It is best if you enlist some help and try to keep the liner as wrinkle free as possible.

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» left by Clayton from San Antonio, TX (185 days 15 hours ago.)

I installed my liner today for a 15x30 ft above ground pool. The bottom seams to fit decent but the sides are really tight. I put about 6" of water in and the sides began to pull tight so I loosened them about as much as I could with the overlap. The water is going to have to do some good pushing on the sides to have them flat against the walls. Do you think that some stretching of the sides will be such a horrible thing? At this point I'm just about ready to risk it an find out. I have already put in a whole days worth of work on it. I guess I should have bought the next biggest size since this thing came on the small side.

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» left by Lugenia Ramirez from Merkel, Tx (170 days 20 hours ago.)

Clayton what did you do to prepare your ground.
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» left by Ferrel Kenda ⁽⁸²²⁾ (184 days 20 hours ago.)

Dear Clayton,

 

Assuming you purchased and were given the correct size liner, it sounds like you have performed the installation correctly. If the floor seemed to fit well, the seam should be reasonably close to the pool wall. In any event, you did well by using the overlap to relieve the stress on the liner. As the pool fills, the water pressure will stretch the liner, but the liner quality should be more than adequate to handle this and eventually the stretching effect will minimize, when the walls of the liner are against the pool walls.

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» left by Jay M. from Lafayette, IN (183 days 22 hours ago.)

Article was great! When you put an inground liner in how do you get the light and cord thru the liner to place it?

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» left by Ferrel Kenda ⁽⁸²²⁾ (183 days 18 hours ago.)

Thanks for the thumbs up! In answer to your question, it is best to install the light when the water level is approximately 6" below the position of the light. If done before this, liner adjustments or natural stretching will change the position of the light hole and may cause wrinkles or poor positioning . The light unit itself should have a face plate that has a gasket seal that will prevent water from seeping past the light unit. This is the best time to inspect and replace worn or cracked gaskets. You must establish the position of the light, secure the faceplate so that a smooth, tight seal is formed between the faceplate and the pool wall, and then the a hole must be cut around the inside diameter of the faceplate to accommodate the light unit. Take care when using any sharp objects near the liner so you only cut the middle out of the faceplate. The light and cord may then be installed and the filling may continue.

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» left by Lugenia Ramirez from Merkel, Tx (170 days 20 hours ago.)

How do you get the ground perfect so it is all the same and not different levels.

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» left by Ferrel Kenda ⁽⁸²²⁾ (170 days 17 hours ago.)

Dear Lugenia,

 

Ground preparation is an important step in the installation. Usually, if the ground is very uneven, a base layer of sand or very clean fill dirt is placed in the spot where the pool will sit. This makes a softer pad for the pool, plus it is much easier to level. If you choose not to use sand, you must be sure to remove all rocks and hard clumps of dirt. Rake the dirt to make as level as possible, then check your work by using a long 2x4 and a carpenters level to fill in any low spots and cut down the high spots. Just keep in mind that the final result will be the contact point of the liner as well as the floor of your swimming pool, so you wnat it to be as level as possible and completely free of sharp objects.

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» left by bob from chicago (161 days 23 hours ago.)

do i NEED to purchase foam cove? or do i just pile sand around the edges and bevel it at around 45degrees?

 

- bob

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» left by Ferrel Kenda ⁽⁸²²⁾ (161 days 16 hours ago.)

Dear Bob,

 

The foam cove keeps the sand in place. Beveling the sand will work, but may settle over time and place added stress on the pool walls causing the liner to stretch and shorten its lifespan or possibly enough stress to weaken or distort the wall. Obviously, as in any project, it is easier to spend a little more now to avoid problems or pay more later fixing them.

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