If you have an older car it may have R12 refrigerant in the air conditioner system. You can still buy R12, but it is very expensive. If you are ready to convert your system to R134, here is a brief explanation of the procedure with a few insider tips to help you. To begin you will need a conversion kit with all the necessary materials. It will include: 2 new adapter fittings, 2 -3 cans of R-134, and a hose with adapter. Once you have all the materials, you can begin the process.
The first thing you have to do is have the R12 recovered with a refrigerant recovery machine. (It is illegal to just open the valve and let it out in the air.) Now that the air conditioning system has no pressure, it is time to install the new valve kit. At this point some people freeze up (no pun intended) because they are afraid of mixing up the adapters on the high and low pressure ends. Don’t worry, they are different sizes. The bigger one goes on the low pressure side of the system and the refrigerant hose will only connect to the low side valve. It is pretty hard to mess this up.
Now that the adapter valves are connected, it is time to start the car and put the air conditioner on high. Turn the blower fan to its highest setting as well and open the windows. Grab a can of R134 and hook up the hose and T valve that came with your kit.With the hose hooked up to the can begin to twist the T valve until it punctures the can. Then open the valve to let some freon out and purge the air in the line. Turn the can upside down and hook it up to the low side adapter valve. Now slowly open the valve and let the Freon flow into the system.
At this point the compressor will begin to cycle on and off. Don’t panic, this is normal. Keep adding Freon until the system begins to cool. You can feel the low pressure line begin to get cool and condensation will accumulate on it. (Do not grab the high pressure line. It can burn you.) You probably will not need all 3 cans and be careful not to overfill the system. If the air conditioner is still not cooling after the second can, something is wrong. You may have a leak in the system or some other difficulty. Do not be tempted to keep pumping Freon in the lines. If the low side line is cold and dripping with moisture you are done. If you have a air conditioning manifold gauge set, the low side should have a pressure of 40 – 50 psi. Good luck and stay cool!
» left by DALE C. from FLORIDA (3 years 41 days ago.)
NO WAY THIS WILL WORK EFFICIENTLY OR AT ALL! ONCE THE FREON CHARGE IS EVACUATED FROM THE SYSTEM/UNIT, YOU MUST PLACE A VACUUM PUMP ON THE SYSTEM TO EVACUATE ANY MOISTURE + AIR FROM IT. AIR TAKES UP SPACE AND YOU MUST REMOVE IT BEFORE CHARGING! Respond to this comment
» left by Anonymous (2 years 181 days ago.)
An R 12 system uses oil that is not compatable with R134 you must replace the orifice tube and the receiver dryer when performing a conversion . Additionally you must flush the system to remove all the old oil prior to attempting to charge the unit. The PAG oil contained in an R12 system will turn to Jello in a matter of a few weeks when exposed to R134. Pull a vacumn on the system after flushing it prior to charging it with R134. If these steps are not taken you are in for an expensive repair. Respond to this comment
» left by E nowlin from Dallas (2 years 163 days ago.)
I understand that I cannot use R 134 in an R 12 system but can I add some of my left over R12 to an R 134 system as long as no R 12 oil is added? I have a big can of R12. Respond to this comment
» left by Nick Smith from L.A. County (2 years 162 days ago.)
This information is bogus !! Someone could get hurt !! And what about vacuuming down the system? What about the compatible oils?? I don't think the author knows enough about converting, or A/C systems, to be putting this B/S out in the world !!! Put a pin in your fat head !!! Respond to this comment
» left by keith price from alabama (2 years 140 days ago.)
now im really confused i dont know wheather to carry my car to the car wash and vacum it out , or to go in the house and flush my toilet before trying to run my a/c. just kidding, guys......... Respond to this comment
» left by Anonymous (2 years 134 days ago.)
As stated by this line, "The first thing you have to do is have the R12 recovered with a refrigerant recovery machine," it is inferring that the lines be evacuated and vacuumed. All 4 of our A/C machines at work will first evacuate the lines AND vacuum the lines. You cannot do one or the other. So when this article was written, I think that he was inferring that when it is being evacuated, it will also be vacuumed at the same time. Respond to this comment
» left by Anonymous (2 years 132 days ago.)
Nonsense the job is much more. Need to purge 100% and change reciever and oil. Complete evacuate etc. Respond to this comment
» left by Anonymous (2 years 130 days ago.)
I have converted a 1990 ford mini van and it worked very well. I never did find the orginal r12 leak. Just evacuated it down to 29 inches, shot 3 to 4 cans of 134 with stop leak in the system, whith the 134 oil can and it lasted 2 years and i sold the van! But my brother had his truck converted, it did not work out! Respond to this comment
» left by John (2 years 125 days ago.)
If you own a POS car and just want the ac to work, just throw in 134. I did so and the cars ac worked fine for 2 years and then I sold it will ac still working. If you own a classic like a 70 Chevelle for example then you should preform the extra work and be sure you will have a ac that will work for many years. simple as that. POS 2k car = just add 134 period (add it and forget it) Respond to this comment
» left by John (2 years 125 days ago.)
BTW, I have a CA state moble ac lic and years of experiance, Use a Ester type oil and it works with R12 & 134A. The ONLY !!!! reason you evacuate the system is to remove moisture PERIOD ,, I am so sick of this "You have to remove air it takes up space" this is just plain wrong and ignorant. Respond to this comment
» left by Bill from Georgia (159 days 23 hours ago.)
Hello...I have a 1990 jeep cherokee and I am thinking of converting A/C system from R-12 to the 134. How and do I go about this? What would the cost be if I took it to a shop to have this done.
» left by Anonymous (2 years 122 days ago.)
removing the air also keeps the head pressure reasonable , and as air is not condensible it does take up space meant for liquid refrigerant y'all hacks with your mail order licenses and not thought for the physics involved in removing heat from a space make me sick and cost your customers time and moey, yes a retrofit can work well if you take the time to add an oil additive and evacuate the system, it is not a complete job but it is servicable. Respond to this comment
» left by Anonymous (132 days 8 hours ago.)
Do you mean that air is not compressible? That it certainly is. I've nere heard of air being non-condensible. Webster's defines the verb condense as to make compact. So, what is up with an air compressor if it can't be compressed?
» left by Sparky from Dallas (2 years 120 days ago.)
Anytime an AC system is evacuated it would be terribly unwise to proceed without pulling a vaccum. PERIOD. Respond to this comment
» left by Anonymous (2 years 119 days ago.)
Use interdynamics kit easy and it works I have used it many times successfully Respond to this comment
» left by Gene from Marlton, NJ (2 years 119 days ago.)
Useful posts (all) but like most need to be processed through the filter of common sense. You wouldn't do this if the AC were working great, would you? Vacuum is certainly cheaper than Freon, if you can't hold a vacuum for at least 30 mins, what makes you think you'll hold a charge? If you don't get the water out, you will at least kill the dryer, if it isn't dead already. Respond to this comment
» left by PAT (2 years 114 days ago.)
this is WHY; Joe turn a wrench is outlawed from purchasing refrigerant!
real simple DO NOT MIX ANY ,,,,REFRIGERANT,OR OIL,S NO MATTER WHAT
AIR CAN / MIGHT WHEN MIXED EXPLODE MIXED INTO A SEALED SYSTEM
MASTER TECH #101 Respond to this comment
» left by anonyms from anonms (2 years 112 days ago.)
You people should be embarassed Respond to this comment
» left by dave from hartford,ct (2 years 107 days ago.)
I just used interdynamics kit 35.00 bucks from autozone and it worked great on my 86 camaro! Respond to this comment
» left by Anonymous (2 years 105 days ago.)
Just for the record, AIR IS CONDESIBLE, Water is NOT. Physics 101 Respond to this comment
» left by tamugrad07 from Baytown, TX (2 years 103 days ago.)
I think you mean compressible. Water is already condensed. Elements of it are condensible under extremely low temps and pressures (cryogenics). Respond to this comment
» left by Bob R from NJ (2 years 100 days ago.)
Question.... is the orifice tube different for 134 freon/oil, from r12. I have a 78 corvette the I would like to convert. The old tube is plugged and dirty, but not sure if the orifice tube needs to be a different type for the 134... Any comments? Respond to this comment
» left by Dumb from Omaha (2 years 92 days ago.)
Let's think about this. When you are pulling a vacume on the system, how do you know when to stop? Has anyone ever heard of using a micron gauge? Do you think refrigerant can get trapped in the oil? Have you ever mixed oxygen with oil? Do you know the difference between dew point and bubble point? If you can't answer these questions, DON'T JACK WITH IT. Respond to this comment
» left by Geo from Old Hickory, Tn. (2 years 89 days ago.)
I converted my 1986 Ford Ranger to 134A around ten years ago. Haven't had a single problem with it. As of Aug. 24, 2006 it is still running and you have to mix a little heat to stay confortable. What a truck 24 mpg in town 36 mpg hwy. 2.3 L engine. Respond to this comment
» left by John W. Hirsch from Northern Va. (2 years 86 days ago.)
No, it was not helpful. At all, particularly from all the 'experts' afterward.
I have an r12 system with a very slow leak (90 accord). It is not cooling, so I ASSUME there is no R12 left. HOW do I make sure all the rest is out and WHEN I can I put R134 in?
The car has 285,000 miles on it, so I don't care if I have to continue to put more r134 in it. Respond to this comment
» left by wrenchmonkey from Sacramento, CA (2 years 85 days ago.)
This guy is an IDIOT. He also has the lines wrong, the large connector is for the high pressure side. What a nut case. There is also better, faster ways of checking for leaks with a Micron Gauge. Respond to this comment
» left by wrenchmonkey from Sacramento, CA (2 years 85 days ago.)
John W. Hirsch from Northern Va:
You need to flush the old R12 oil out first, it's not compatible with R134a. You will fry the compressor right away. Then you need to find the leak. A lot of work for a car that old IMHO. Respond to this comment
» left by wrenchmonkey from Sacramento, CA (2 years 85 days ago.)
And he never touched on permeable hoses, either. DO NOT DO AS THIS PERSON SAYS! Respond to this comment
» left by Tom Gardner from military airbase mojave (2 years 80 days ago.)
MOJAVE GREEN 4 duracool or hc refrigerant work as efficiently as r12 whereas r134a has a high head pressure, is caustic and 35% less efficient. I added one six ounce can to a system that takew 33 oz of r12 and i have bone chilling water dripping refrigeration. I have to do it over because i need 11 oz to be politically correct, but not in a hurry and i live in the mojave. i use my air compressor input and run it through an old solar panel to keep heat and oil separated . Respond to this comment
» left by Simple Guy from Connecticut (2 years 76 days ago.)
Works like a charm!!!! Too many pseudoscientists on this thread are over engineering this solution and telling you that you can't do this or you can't do that.
Here's the bottom line. If your car is an old POS then this IS your best solution. If you own anything other car that is of any value then please pay for a more 'professional' conversion. Respond to this comment
» left by Anonymous (177 days 16 hours ago.)
THIS GUY HAS GOT IT RIGHT!
» left by Anonymous (163 days 8 hours ago.)
I agree, is an old car, just give it a try if you AC is not working? There is nothing to loose, right?
» left by George from Oklahoma (1 year 225 days ago.)
I am trying to convert a Mercedes to R134. An air conditioning tech checked it and then removed the freon from the system. The compressor does not seem to come on, possibly because there is no refrigerant in the system. Is there a way to get the compressor to come on and suck the r134 in? Respond to this comment
» left by Immaculate (1 year 221 days ago.)
I'm a total rookie at this, I've changed my oil, vaccumed the system and everything but wouldn't R134a f**k up my R12 compressor after some time? also what will happen if a system that is origanally R12 is over charged with 134a? Under normal operation you shouldn't see any bubbles in the sight glass but I've come to understand that because of cloudiness and oil in 134 that might be mistaken for bubbles in the sight glass leading to dangerous over charging. how do i know when to stop charging? Respond to this comment
» left by neal from indiana (1 year 199 days ago.)
my 99 chevy truck air is cycling i went to add some 134a. put a gauge on the low side and the pessure ranged from 25-65. i haven't charged one in a while but this don't feel right. Respond to this comment
» left by Anonymous (1 year 188 days ago.)
some what, but to all the geniuses out there who have 1/2 a brain know, with the conversion of r-12 to 134-a not only do you have to e-vac the system and use the proper pac oil you also have to replace the reciever/drier so that you blow won't blow the compressor or the condenser. ( simplicity-101 ) Respond to this comment
» left by tee from virginia (1 year 173 days ago.)
Thanks for that but i want to know if your low side pressure that is next to the radiator suppose to have green stuff around it, or is the valve need to change or it is no good Respond to this comment
» left by look for facts (1 year 165 days ago.)
wow what a waste of time this has been just to read all this. I could have went to ac school got a degree and been a money making pro by the time I got through all this garbage information.If you want correct information go buy a book on the subject and read it. At least it will contain facts not just peoples opinions. Respond to this comment
» left by Jim from Alabama (1 year 162 days ago.)
Yes, this article was helpful to me. It taught me not to mess with the AC on my near perfect "91 MR2. I think I'll just go find some R12. Respond to this comment
» left by Jon E from Prescott, Arizona (1 year 159 days ago.)
Once your system is leak tight, contains the proper oil to match the refrigerant to be used, has been evacutated to remove any air and moisture contianed therein, and has a metering device designed for the refrigerant to be used, then one may charge the system thusly:
1. Attach the refrigerant container to the low (suction) side of the system.
2. Open the refrigerant container, thereby breaking the vacuum, and allow as much refrigerant to tenter the system as will go into the static system. Then, shut off the valve to isolate the refrigerant container.
3. Place a floor fan in front of the car so that air is directed against the condenser (located in fornt of or is part of the radiator) to simulate ram air (the air flow generated by a car's movement).
4. Start the car and adjust engine speed (weight on foot feed?) to approximate approximately 40 mph.
5. Place an accurate AC type thermometer in an air discharge duct which has the best air flow.
6. Turn on the AC.
7. Open all the car windows. (Note that the car needs to be in a warm environment of around 90 degrees f for charging to work best and most accurately.) This keeps the heat load on the evaporator (cold coil in the car).
8. Check the thermometer continuously.
9. As refrigerant is added, the temperature will come down for so long as the evaporator is not completely full of refrigerant.
10. Go easy, adding a little bit of refrigerant and waiting upon the system to equillibrate.
11. If the temperature drops, add a little more refrigerant and wait and watch for drop or not.
12. As soon as you notice that the addition of refrigerant has not caused any temperature drop, you have the system charged to the point where the evaporator is maximally used. STOP adding refrigerant at this time.
13. Dismantle your setup and you are ready to drive a car with a properly charged system.
This works with any refrigerant.
Note that R-12 could be charged as either vapor or liquid, with the caveat of not slugging the compressor valves with liquid. R-134a and other azeotropic refrigerants separate in the gaseous state and must be charged as liquid. Their cans are designed with dip tubes so that liquid comes out when the can is upright, just opposite of R-12 cans. Again, don't slug the compressor. That requires metering the liquid through a small oriface, which are available as individual divices, or by cracking the container or gauge-set valve and thereby causing the liquid to flash into vapor before entering the system.
I am not an auto mechanic, but an old retired HVAC tech who understands the physics and has charged all my autos thusly and those of my friends. Prior to this method, I tried all the other methods, such as, sight glass, pressures, and weighing it in. No method worked better or as well as this method.
As for converting a system, I beleive (as best as I can remember) that the oil and the meteing device should be changed when going from 12 to 134a. All systems should be vacuumed, although smaller systems used to be "blown out" with the refrigerant by many techs. All other considerations aside, that practice absolutely is illegal today.
If a system is empty when you start working on it, it needn't be recovered, but if any refrigerant is in it it must by law be recovered and properly disposed of, as must the old oil. Also, for residential and commercial systems, you by law must hold an EPA certification to open a system. I believe there is an automotive certification, but I am not certain if it must be held to work on automotive systems. Respond to this comment
» left by optimist134 from syracuse, ny (1 year 153 days ago.)
R-134a is a SINGLE COMPONENT refrigerant. No trouble charging in vapor form. By the way, a NON-azeotropic refrigerant is a mixture of gasses that might separate out into individual components. Man, you guys sure are all know-it-alls! Respond to this comment
» left by Jim the pro from Phoenix (1 year 153 days ago.)
I am a master AC tech and all you need to do is flush the system with a garden hose and then add R134A.
» left by Anonymous (1 year 148 days ago.)
What kind of garden hose do I use ??? and how long do I let dry ? Respond to this comment
» left by michael from tampa, FL (1 year 147 days ago.)
i have a honda 1990 civic dx. how do i convert the AC from r12 to r134a? Respond to this comment
» left by pedro from new jersery (1 year 146 days ago.)
i have a 1990 geo storm i want to convert, can someone tell me the truth i hear so many excuses please mail me Respond to this comment
» left by anon (1 year 146 days ago.)
After the garden hose, the drying time is too long for me so i use a propane torch, and carefully aim it into the a/c vents in the dash. That dries it out fast. Just keep a rag around to put out the dash when it goes ablaze. Respond to this comment
» left by Ken Goad from Indianapolis (1 year 142 days ago.)
I have a 88 Caddy Fleetwood FWD. I bought the conversion kit and went to convert the old R-12 to R134. After I added the Freon, the system BLEW it ALL out. Now I see that I needed to replace the old oil and vacuumed out, etc... Is it possible to get someone knowledgeable to email me directly with instructions etc...on exactly what to do? Possible that I may have ruined the compressor?
» left by Anonymous (1 year 139 days ago.)
Yes this was very informative,and now I have actually found out WHY I dont ask for help or take my vehicle to anyone to repair,when my muffler bearing went out it was a tough job finding a new one but I did finally and the hard part was getting it apart so I could get all them little rollers in the gas tank in order for the fuel pump to draw em up and through the valves and get em back in the muffler.....Jim Respond to this comment
» left by Brain from Texas (1 year 127 days ago.)
How to tell if there is R12 or R134 in your AC system.
1. with car running & ac & fan on max, open blowoff valve.
2. place mouth above & inhale the freon.
3. keep the freon inhaled for 10 seconds then exhale.
4. R12 will have a banana flavored aftertaste, R134 is more of a butterscotch.
5. if taste was not apperent, repeat steps 1-4. Respond to this comment
» left by Patti from Kansas City (1 year 127 days ago.)
OMG! I just read ALL of this and am just shaking my head.
I left the auto parts store earlier where they have a conversion kit for $39.95. Instructions on the outside looked easy enough. The guy at the counter said that if you take the cap off of the valve and it is threaded on the outside - the car has not been converted. Threading on outside of valve = R12 refrigerant. OK I got that. Looked at my 18 yr old daughter's 91 Honda with 250K+ miles on it and thought maybe we could do it ourselves. (91 Honda 250K miles = POS car)
After reading all of this - lol - garden hose - put your mouth over valve and after you poison yourself you will be able to tell by the flavor - lol - use a torch on the dash to dry it out - I don't know which of you guys are the nut cases and which ones know what they are talking about.
Geez Louise, you guys are cattier than a bunch of women! If anyone looking at this had a bunch of money - we wouldnt be trying to do this in the first place . . . therefore we wouldn't be here!
I think I will call Charlie (my shade tree mechanic also a supervisor for the KCMO Police Department Automotive maintenance) and get him to do it. Thanks guys! Respond to this comment
» left by Steve from Va (1 year 126 days ago.)
The garden hose approach only works with japanese cars. In fact, I think they use water vice r12 or 134 anyway... So just fill the lines of your rice burer with water and test the A/C... if it dires up, just add more water. Should all be good. American cars will work with anything... they blow cold even if you fill them with lighter fluid. sometimes I have even used recycled motor oil... putting it to good use and saving the environment too! The recyce kits are out there guys, have been for years now, and are selling like hot cakes. Every auto parts store is carrying them now. If all these issues you state above were true, I think we would have heard something.... and I think the companies woud have some lawsuits on their hands. Respond to this comment
» left by monte from dallas (1 year 125 days ago.)
when you convert from r12 to r134a do you use the same amount of 134a as it did with r12?
» left by Anonymous (1 year 120 days ago.)
The remarks from Jon E. Prescott were most helpful.
» left by kirpal Singh from Roseville Ca 95661 (1 year 114 days ago.)
I strongly feel it is better to pay adoctor than the undertaker. Please take your car to a dealer or a certified mechanic it is much cheaper than monkeying with the system. signed Kirpal singh Roseville Ca
» left by John K. from Cincinnati (1 year 103 days ago.)
There are alot of good information between the fooling around that confuses a sincere person. Take it to a dealer.
» left by DC from Madison, WI (1 year 101 days ago.)
What about R12a? Supposed to be allot better than either R12 or R134a and is non toxic. Sooo... still doing research on my end. This was helpful... but only to a certain degree... soo... if you are going to do this on your own... at LEAST first go to the mechanic (unless you are mechanically inclined without an ego that says you can do this) to get rid of the old R12 and R134a. Dont let that crap out in the air. Please.
» left by Mack L White (1 year 99 days ago.)
DAMN! I WAS ABOUT TO CHANGE THE R-12 TO R-134 AND DECIDED TO JUST ROLL DOWN THE WINDOWS. THANKS FOR ALL OF THE HELP. ALL OF YOU HAVE CONVINCED ME THAT THE CONVERSION IS A GOVERNMENT PLOT TO STEAL WHAT IS LEFT OF MY WAGES!
» left by Anonymous (1 year 97 days ago.)
I just filled up with 134A and went with it. That was two years ago.
this is a site that sells a new drop in replacement replacement for r-12 it works exactly as r-12 does. i would also recommend using a product called hotshot both work with the origional r-12 oils and all that. but also i do recommend at least talking to someone face to face that is licensed, for advice, most do give advice for free. as do i :)
» left by Anonymous (1 year 94 days ago.)
I'm not paying $500 to get the a/c working on a $1000 (if that) car. I found a cheap conversion kit and I am gonna go with it. If it doesn't work it won't be the end of the world--it's only hot where I live for three months out of the year anyway. Good luck to those of you who over-analyzed this and end up spending a fortune!
» left by Anonymous (1 year 83 days ago.)
If anyone has read down this far, follow the advice from Jon E. Prescott and disregard everything else for an R12 to R134 conversion. Always replace the receiver/drier, replace the oil in the compressor (if it does not leak), clean all the oil out of the rest of the system, evacuate to dry the system and then recharge. If you have bottled nitrogen sitting around, blow everything out before evacuating with a vacuum pump as it helps to dry the system faster.
» left by pete from florida (1 year 55 days ago.)
this last guy was on the money i am talking from my 52 years in this business i could add a little more to it but seeing this show it would be a waste of time
» left by steven from chicago (1 year 42 days ago.)
I never laughed so hard in my life !!!
no wonder the posts are so old you are all dead by now!!!!!
» left by Anonymous (1 year 8 days ago.)
who in the heck moderates this post anyway? if u dont know what your doing, then save yourself and the enviroment and hire someone that does. Or u could do what my grandpa did, roll down your windows, duh!!!
» left by Anonymous (332 days 18 hours ago.)
OH MY GOD.
I'm 16 years old..
and I know more about a/c than this guy does holy crap
don't listen to him your gunna hurt yourself
» left by Ken from BC (303 days 3 hours ago.)
I have been through all this.
The terrible pain and $$$$ of air conditioning.
It is confusing because air conditioning systems are complex.
Basically, once your car is old, you need a new air conditioning system.
The compressor, dryer, condenser, orifice tube, the works.
If you just replace the R12 with 134, it will blow up within 6 months. I have had this happen on several cars I converted that were older. By 100,000 miles you need all new parts. It will work for awhile if you recharge. If you do not replace all parts, the contamination left in the system (and it is impossible to blow it all out with compressed air) will destroy the new parts. So, you need to replace everything. And, it is too expensive to be worthwhile
Typically, your compressor will go, and then you put a new one on and recharge. Or the seals are gone, so you recharge and replace a few seals.
The solution: go to the dealer and order everything and have them install it. Several grand, but that is the only way.
An example: Ford Taurus, 1989, air cond got weak, recharged it with 134. Compressor then blew. Mech then put on a used pump. It blew. Then, he put on a new compressor. It then blew after 2 months. Then, he put on another compressor and many, many new parts. But not all. Air did not blow, but never really worked very well.
It is a complicated system. It wears out.
Not what you want to hear, but true.
» left by Jack Achttien from Mohave Valley, AZ 86440 (283 days 8 hours ago.)
The problem with converting from an old R12 system to R134a refrigerant is that the compressor is already worn from probably years of use. Once we evacuate the old system, replace the necessary seals, we are still faced with a "tired" compressor. The old converted system will not perform as well as a new system. On most vehicles a new system can be installed from $850.00 to $1050.00, with full warranty. Don't misunderstand, converting may buy you a year or so with the old system, but at a reduced performance compared to a new system. Hopes this helps with making a decision of which way to proceed. Thanks, Jack A.
» left by Anonymous (250 days 22 hours ago.)
If you have a pickup, just install a Mitsubishi Ductless Mini Split. Hang the evaporator in the cab, and set the condenser in the bed. The small units pull around 6 amps at 115 VAC. So the power issue is solved by an inverter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. And when the truck finally pukes, remove the mini-split, and you now have a (free) A/C unit for your garage!!
» left by Anonymous (220 days 6 hours ago.)
Whelp...That was 10 minutes I will never get back.
» left by Anonymous (211 days 20 hours ago.)
Guys with the garden hose and blow torch comments not funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
» left by Toad from UK (191 days 16 hours ago.)
I don't think I've ever read so much crap. Reading all this has reinforced my conviction that once a AC system has gone faulty there is little that can be done other than spending mega bucks.. Conversions are not worth jack, if your truck is R12 then regas it with R12. If there is no gas left then there is a leak and regassing it will not solve anything. You are unlikely to find the leak by any means other than replacing anything that could leak...
» left by Occupant from Hill County, TX (170 days 7 hours ago.)
Eh, I'll make it simple. If the AC dies in your car and you need to deal with R-12, take it to a mechanic or a dealer. Don't mess with it. You'll tear it up. And stand there and ensure your mechanic does it right. I was an idiot in 2001 and was driving a 1988 Buick Century I bought on eBay for $275. The AC stopped cooling on a 105-degree day and I decided to spend $100-$200 to get it charged. I went into a shop and asked them if they had R-12. They said yes. They took my car in, charged it up, and I saw the mechanic throw away a can of R-134a. I asked him if that would screw it up. He said it'll be fine, he added some oil too. The AC compressor locked up within 2 miles of leaving the shop. They refused to touch it, started spouting off about what did I put in there, what did I do to it, all within 10 minutes of leaving their shop and spending $125. I sold the car to a guy on a bicycle a week later for $500 and bought a 1995 model Century that ran R-134a. The 1995 was a much better car than the 1988, but it cost four times as much.
I'm now driving a 1988 Suburban that has been converted to R-134a with a Factory Air setup and I top it off twice a year. I use the tall skinny can from AutoZone, it costs $25. I shake it up good, plug it into the port on the silver can under the hood, puncture the can, open the valve, and jiggle it around until the can is empty. By then the low side pressure in 80 degree weather is up to 40-45psi, and I'm good for 6 months. I also fixed two small leaks at the condenser (nuts on lines were damp and not tight) and I may not have to do this again for quite some time now. My wife's car was showing low pressure when I hooked the gauge up to it, so I'm buying another can for her car (1999 Taurus). It's easy enough to do, wear goggles and gloves in case the can explodes (hasn't happened to me but I'm careful), and use common sense. Read the label, read the instructions, and if you're leery, take it to a shop. My wife can do this. My 13-year old can do this. Get over it.
» left by (162 days 5 hours ago.)
When converting to refrigerant 134 from R12 in your automobile, do you have to change the oil in your compressor?
» left by jb from broomall pa (142 days 23 hours ago.)
yes it was amusing and informative to. you take the good and leave the funny,thats all.
» left by Memoryz from AZ (140 days 12 hours ago.)
WOW! and you guys can vote!
» left by Matt from NJ (134 days 4 hours ago.)
This one of the last items I need to fix before selling & want to get the AC working again as cheaply as possible. Any help with these questions plus any additional advice is greatly appreciated.
Okay folks, so here’s a little background.... I have a 1997 Honda Accord w/170K miles, which I am just about to put on the market. I have poured a lot of $$ into this car & just had the entire car painted by Earl Schrieb (real $%&*$%& job on prep & sanding) I would grade the paint quality a C+.
So here it is…I just purchased a new (rebuilt) AC Compressor to replace the current one which ceased. What I was thinking of doing was to have the new compressor installed by a local garage then use one of the DIY Freon "R" kits (R12 or R134??) to refill the system (which is already evacuated) Don’t hate me, but I mistakenly removed one of the supply lines and lost the gases. Aside from the gasses that escaped is there anything else to be drained from the system?
A- Would using one of DIY KITS save me money instead of paying the garage to do it?
B- How much should I be paying the garage to 1-INSTALL the AC Compressor? 2- REFILL Freon?
C- Given the system is dry and the compressor is new, WHAT TYPE of FREON REFILL should I use?
D- Is there ANYTHING SPECIAL I should do beyond attaching the "R" refill can and emptying the contents into the system? ANY "R" SPECIFIC DIRECTIONS for refilling i.e. R12 R134
Thanks AC Knowledge Team!!
-Matt (haykoon*aol*com)
» left by Dan from Tucson AZ (121 days 14 hours ago.)
I`m getting ready to convert my 1990 Chevy K15 from R12 to R134. I only have one question from all you automotive pros. After flushing the system is there any amount of PAG oil that needs to be replaced in the evaporator or condenser?
Well, I was hoping to learn about getting my AC up and running in my 90 Buick LeSabre, but I think I'll just put up with the heat. It's only hot for about three months anyway. After reading all of these comments I would say that paying the $400(which is an outrageous price for a little can) for the R-12 would work better than spending $1000 or converting and everything else. My car isn't worth either fix so I'll just deal with it.
Haven't any of you guys heard of hydrocarbon refrigerants? Work better, provides great cooling faster, cost less, much lower pressure, and compatible with all systems? And they don't add to global warming or ozone depletion! Do the right thing by your kids and Google up Duracool or Hychill or any of the other manufacturers - and don't believe the fluorolobby hype that there is any risk of fire, HCs are in use all over the world and there simply aren't any bodies...
Well, this post is well over 2 years old. So R134 is now also old hat and there are other substitutes around. The basic problem with AC conversions is that any good mechanic will want you to change everything (compressor, condenser, filter, and any flexible hoses too) so that he can make some good money out of you, and the COST is what most people are seeking to avoid. The truth is you don't need to replace anything if you don't have a leak and your AC is working fine, just LEAVE it alone and if it's R12 SELL THE CAR, it's TOO OLD already! If you do have a leak, with either type of gas, then if it's slow (i.e. takes a couple of months to stop cooling) then just keep topping it up with whatever is in it already. If it's a faster leak, SELL THE GODDAM CAR! If you REALLY want to give this a go out of curiosity, then get a conversion kit and read the instructions, then follow them - check those against this guy's instructions, and leave a bit of leeway in case the instructions on the conversion can are relevant only to the use of the can! If you don't want to risk damaging your car but you do have AC problems - SELL IT! If you have a non-working AC or one with a leak, DON'T CONVERT IT, because doing the conversion won't fix your problems! For goodness' sakes, use some COMMON SENSE and stop offending each other, plebs!
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