The politics of fashion
Extending copyright law to Fashion designs.
With the fashion industry generating over 350 billion
annually, a few New York based designers ( Diane Von Furstenberg, Narcisco
Rodriguez and Nicole Miller just to name a few) have formed a coalition in
seeking that the current US copy write law extend to the fashion world. The
Council of Fashion Designers of America is pushing for the Design Piracy
Prohibition Act. The act would grant a
three year copyright protection in fashion designs, and would incur penalties
of 250,000 or $5 per copy when violated.
The bill also might go as far as protecting not only the
design concepts cut and shape, but also go farther and actually protect the
pattern on a piece of fabric used for garment assembly.
Both Houses have agreed and have drafted similar bills
recognizing the need for US
fashion industry to be protected by law.
What has caused this change of attitude in the fashion world
when after all fashion is a re-inventing of itself from past trends to drawing
inspiration from other designer’s .In the past the view was that”Imitation is
the sincerest form of flattery?”
Why change now?
Three drastic things have turned the American fashion world
to take notice and re-think the rather relaxed view of the past.
The new trend of top designers like Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang,
Isaac Mizrahi, and Nicole Miller bringing
exclusive designer collections to mid level retailers such as Target,
Kohl’s and JC Penny’s thus affording the masses the appeal of being fashionable.
The rate at which knock-offs can be created from cut, to
production to on the rack from huge over sea’s supply chains and manufacturing.
Finally the new trend of designers extending their own
labels into diversified markets crossing over to reach new potential clients. A
good example would be some of the luxury jean line designers, now creating
sportswear, accessories and even shoes.
However, not all in the fashion industry agree with the
proposed bill and even the The Council of Fashion Designers of America is split
on the bill. What causes concerns are
the damaging effects it could have, the
cure maybe greater than the illness stifling creativity, competition and
growth. After all it is these very same principles that allow fashion to grow,
to be fresh drawing it’s inspiration from the past and being able to be free
and reference other’s designs and some how making them original.
How many times have we seen
fashion classics re-born such as the little black cocktail dress, the
polo shirt or the cargo pants, with a new twist, perhaps; an added pocket,
different material or new stitch this is what births trends, the very thing
that keeps fashion alive, who will decide who created an original.
Did Ralph Lauren really design the cotton knit shirt known
so affectionately as the Polo shirt or did the logo on the shirt create the
buzz?
If such law existed would they have been a success?
Only time will tell who this bill really benefits. |
