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Yves Saint-Laurent's, Louis Vuitton, Dior Kris Van Asche, Gaspard Yurkievich and many more luxurious brands shows their men's collection to end Paris men's shows where men's fashion won a feminine touch. In an era obsessed with global warming and sustainable development, the 44 spring/summer 2009 collections displayed at the four-day men's fashion shows ending Sunday featured light airy see-through linens, silks and soft feathery cottons. Bright colours, more often the domain of women's wear, also figured strong. As Gay Pride marches took place across Europe, pink was popular in Paris.
1. YSL At YSL, designer Stefano Pilati used quotations from Plato to explain why he combined female detailing with a masculine silhouette. "The original human nature was not like the present ... the sexes were not two as they are now." Pilati underscored the union of genders with a line for men made in fabrics normally worn by women -- crepe de chine, organza, shantung and silk voile, all fabrics which float rather than fall.
2. Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton, a house with a predominantly masculine view of the world, chose pink for shorts, pants and waistcoat, and even shoes. A huge pink sail served as the backdrop for an otherwise frankly male take on fashion from Emmanuel Ungaro designer Franck Boclet, who said fuschia was simply one of the house's signature colours. "I wanted a gay fresh style," Boclet said of what he told AFP was "a Paris 60s look" of hip-hugging tight-thighed pants, chequered suits, and the odd item in day-glo orange, bright blue or purple.
3. Dior At Dior, one of the most breathlessly-awaited shows, Belgian designer Kris Van Asche broke with the brand's iconic black, splashing deep gold, cobalt blue, fuschia and day-glo orange, shown on a gravel runway running between a line of tall trees. His masculine touch saw the return of the leg-hugging straight pants first designed by his style-setting predecessor Hedi Slimane, as well as harsh laser-slashing in shirts and jackets, and minimalist small collars and tiny lapels.
4. Kris Van Asche For his own epynomous collection, Kris Van Asche too went for feminine detailing, with suits made in the light cottons normally used for shirts. Some of the smaller more outlandish designers went further in blurring gender codes in fashion.
5. Gaspard Yurkievich Gaspard Yurkievich, a favourite with the trendy Paris set, said he aimed "to reintegrate feminine elements in the male wardrobe." The result was a bouffant tunic worn over trousers and short jackets with lots of trim that resembled that womens-wear classic, the little Chanel suit.
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