It's been awhile since I wrote my Searchwarp article on beard coloring using professional beauty products. The response has been very good--in fact, it's been amazing. Who knew that so many men wanted information on coloring facial hair? However, since that initial writing I've had time to do some tweaking of my own process, and thought it would be a good time to share that information with the rest of you guys. So here goes.
Better Gray Coverage
Gentlemen, if your primary reason for coloring your beard and/or moustache is to make the gray go away, then remember this rule: A darker color and higher-volume developer cover better than a lighter color and lower-volume developer. A 10-volume developer is used primarily to add color; what you see on the hair swatch is pretty much what you're going to get. A 20-volume developer will lighten the color you use by one to two levels; 30-volume developer will lighten the color by two to three levels. However, as the developer lightens the color it also gives better gray coverage, and the color lasts longer. At least it does for me. By going from a 10-volume to a 20-volume developer, I've found my ending color is a little bit lighter than it was before, and the color looks more natural. I've found I can now go up to two weeks before the gray gets so noticeable that I need to color it again. If you're thinking about trying a stronger developer, stick with your existing color before you start looking at darker shades.
Get to the Root of the Problem
You've probably noticed that when gray does start appearing in your facial hair, it first appears at the root. If gray starts showing up almost immediately after coloring, it's a strong indication that you're not getting color close enough to the base of the hair follicle. Make sure your applicator gets color all the way down to your skin.
Scrubbing Bubbles
Here's a tip I learned only recently: Reduce dripping by scrubbing the color into your facial hair instead of just painting it on. Use a small brush to work the coloring solution into your hair and it will gradually turn into a foam. The foam colors just as well, sticks to the hair better, and drips less. It also means you can use less solution. I'm using about 20-25% less color and developer when I color my moustache and goatee by foam.
Keep It Conditioned
The stronger the developer you use when coloring your facial hair, the more damage you can do to it. If you graduate to a 20-volume developer or higher, be sure to use a good moisturizing conditioner on your hair immediately after coloring. Let the conditioner remain in the hair for 3-5 minutes before rinsing it out.
(By the way guys, if you color your hair, these tips still apply.)
I hope these suggestions help you on your journey to natural-looking facial hair color. Now party on!