Mercedes Benz Front Brakes Replacement. C Class Brakes 203 Series. by Arnt Johansen Europa Auto

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Mercedes Benz Front Brakes Replacement. C Class Brakes 203 Series.
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Submitted Wednesday, February 18, 2009
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This article will give an overview how to change front brakes on a typical 203 chassis style car. Parts may differ depending on car especially on cars with sports package. There a few different parts for the C-class so it is always a good idea to make sure you are getting the right parts by checking your VIN number.

For this repair you will need the following items:

12 mm socket and ratchet or wrench

18 mm socket

Deep 17mm socket for removing wheel bolts

T30 torx bit

Torque wrench

Large flat head screwdriver

Caliper piston compressor or large pliers

Wire brush

Plastic or lead hammer

Brake rotors and/or pads

Brake pad sensors

Anti squeak spray

Brake grease

Gloves

Rags

Cleaning solvent

1: Secure the car with jack stands and remove the front wheels. This job can get dirty so it is recommended to wear gloves and some work clothes.

2: Now is a good time to clean the new rotors and spray the pads with anti-squeak. We have had best luck by using Castle anti-squeak and spraying one thick layer and letting it soak. Grease can also be applied now to all contacting parts. Try to use only Mercedes-Benz parts or OEM parts. Aftermarket parts have are known to squeak and make noise. Important: If your pads are very low or you are doing front and back, check the level of your brake fluid! If you have had to add fluid in the past you will have to suck some out now. Squeezing in the caliper pistons will push out brake fluid from the reservoir if the reservoir is full!

Check the level make sure it is not too full, or fluid will come out and you will have a mess!!

Use only Mercedes-Benz approved fluid.

Cleaning oil off new rotors

Spraying anti-squeak

Grease applied to contact points don't forget the ears.

Mercedes-Benz brake grease part number 001 989 47 51

Castle anti-squeak

3: Loosen the torx screw on the rotor. Tip: to keep the rotor from spinning use a screwdriver to lock the rotor by putting it in a rotor vent hole.

Remove rotor screw.

4: Using the large screwdriver loosen the pads. Note the position of the brake pad sensor. It will be installed the same way on the new pads. Depending on your car you may have only one sensor or one on each side.

Loosening pads

These pads are very low note brake sensor position.

5: Remove the 2 caliper bolts by using a 12mm wrench or socket. The caliper can now be moved to the side. The pads can now be removed as well.

Removing 12mm bolts

Pads ready for removal.

6: Using a caliper compressing tool or a large pair of pliers compress the piston all the way in. This will be as far as you need to go if you are only changing pads.

Screwing in piston

Piston all the way in.

7: Remove the 2 large caliper bracket bolts and remove the bracket using an 18mm socket.

8: Using the wire brush clean the bracket in the places where it contacts the brake pads. Clean the hub as well. This helps prevent brake noise. If your brake pads came with brake pad clips remove the old ones and install the new ones now.

Cleaning the hub

Cleaning caliper bracket. Spraying some solvent on it first will help.

Removing old clips with screwdriver

Installing pad clips

Correctly installed clips

9: Remove the rotor. It may be stuck rather hard and you might have to hit it with a hammer, preferably a plastic or lead hammer. Tip: To prevent the rotor from flying off insert one of the lug bolts.

10: Install new rotor and tighten the rotor bolt with T30 torx bit.

11: Install the caliper mounting bracket with the large bolts to 115 Nm (85 Ft. lbs.) using your torque wrench.

Tightening large bolts to 115 Nm

Bracket installed with new clips.

12: Install the new brake pads. Make sure they have grease on the parts that touch the clips and caliper. If it has a sensor install that too.

Pads installed. Note position of caliper to prevent stressing brake hose.

13: Install the caliper.

Tightening 2 smaller 12mm bolts.

Brakes installed. Wheel ready to be put on.

14: Now it will have to be repeated for the other side.

15: Install wheels and torque to 95 Ft. lbs.

16: Time to brake in the car. Before starting the car push the brake pedal all the way down a couple of times. It is recommended you brake in the car in a place with no other traffic. Bring the car up to about 35mph and hit brakes and come to a complete stop. Repeat this 3 or 4 more times. This will seat the brakes correctly. Now you have new brakes that won't make any noise for a while! This is only meant to be a guide if you do not have the tools or feel comfortable changing brakes do not do it yourself and get a professional to do it for you!!!

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» left by Avis Ward ^(12,132)
Avis Ward (246 days ago.)

Wow, Arnt! This is great info and fully illustrated! What a thorough job! The title caught my attention because just yesterday, I was pumping my brakes for no reason and wondered about them. This reminds me to call the garage! I didn't welcome you before, so welcome to SearchWarp!
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	This Article has been viewed 628 times. Article added to SearchWarp.com on 2/18/2009 3:38:17 PM. View other articles written by Arnt Johansen ⁽⁴⁴⁸⁾

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