When searching for a suit, don't expect a perfect fit off the peg, regardless of price it's not tailor-made.
A brief narrative on off the peg suits versus body shape variables.
Don't be fooled by the scripted compliments given by sales staff, make your own judgement. Their persuasive nature will lead you to illusions. The correct fit will be as the jacket is pulled over your shoulders. And no excess gaping across the upper chest should be evident.
Remembering that height can be constant but proportions are variable, long legs short trunk or conversely long trunk short legs. The jacket tail length must be proportionate to you vertical dimensions.
The rule of thumb, is, the tail should sit on the crease of your bum. Sleeve length easy, on the crease on the inside of wrist. If too long or short, no worries they can be adjusted.
Shoulders pads flush with biceps.
Determine the fit around the trunk, Buttoned, try getting a fist snugly in between the jacket and your belly, good fit.
Choose the brand that suits your body shape, they're all cut from different blocks.
Experiment, if you normally wear trousers at belly button height, then try wearing them lower on the hip, they may just look more proportionate to your shape, especially if your legs are very long and trunk short. You may save a few bucks on altering the length.
It takes a bit of getting used to, but a change is always good.
The correct length: Just off the floor in stocking feet, or 4cm with shoes on.
Observe the seat, it should not be hanging out, if so, they're too large, or not a suitable brand for your body shape; keep looking.
Don't mess with the jacket, it's an engineered structure, size up and get it as close as possible, trousers are easy to let in, let out take up or down. If at all possible get two pairs, remembering the wear and tare comparative to the jacket.
Check to see if the trousers are lined to the knee, this adds to the comfort zone and will also increase their life span, by reducing friction.
Importantly, ill fitting trousers will wear out very quickly.
Check the fit between the arm pit and hip, it should snug shapely in your waist and not hang straight down.
Choose your style, Anglo Saxons; the English cut, Germanic; Hugo Boss, Latin; Armani, Zegna. Just remember the first dark business suit originated in England the grandfather of all suits that followed.
The best fabric? Wool, the best wool Australian Marino.
If pinned striped and textured, compliment it with a shirt that bares resemblance and to pull the collection together a silk tie; create a focal point, don't blend in with the back ground.
Try and remember to combine, colour, pattern and texture.
There are a number of brands that have delivered consistent quality and style for decades; Paul Smith, Ted Baker, Hugo Boss, Simon Carter and Ben Sherman. More generic brands, but lesser known, Studio Italia, is the market choice for those seeking a good quality general purpose business suit. Classically cut they will fit most body shapes and sizes, unless of course you're over portly. And generously come with two pairs of trousers, price $599,00.
Don't forget a pair of cufflinks.
Now to help appreciate the modern day suit, a little history: The well-dressed man about town should wear clothes that are simple, functional and discreet', George Bryan "Beau" Brummell commanded in the early 19th century. By advocating well-cut, tailored clothes, Brummell essentially invented what has come to be known as the "British look."
Brummell rejected 18th century frills (dandy man). His mandate, a dark blue coat, buff-coloured pantaloons and waistcoat, black boots and a clean white neck cloth, survives today asthedark business suit, white shirt and silk tie
He was particularly adamant about the whiteness of his cravats. As he made his daily rounds from the park, various gentleman's clubs and fashionable homes, Brummell would stop and change his cravat as often as three times a day. He preferred neck cloths that were lightly starched and carefully folded.
The simplicity of Brummell's uniform was adopted by everyone from many working men to his friend, the Prince Regent, later King George IV. For the first time, poorer men hoping to make their way in the world could easily imitate upper class fashion.
Lastly, give men's jewellery a chance.
Patrick McMurray, a modest business man with a keen interest in the evolution of styles and
progress of fashion through the ages. In particular, the growth and performance of the
silk weaving and silk tie manufacturing industry in England and its continuing survival in the
face of the mass manufacturing revolution. Thanks to electronic communications we can publish articles on the wire, making them immediately available for people with shared interests to learn and respond.
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