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What constitutes a good mens suits fit? There are some crucial elements to take note of that are applicable for both off-rack suit and tailor-made ones.
Most importantly, know these pointers when trying on your suit so that you know what needs to be altered if necessary. But details like shoulders and lapels can never be altered after finishing.
Shoulders
The shoulders of a mens suit are very important. It is where the suit is going to hang and drape from.
First focus should be on the shoulder padding used. The preferred style should be one with soft sloping shoulders to give an overall relax, comfortable, and yet a smart look.
If you have a very sloping shoulder then it would make sense to have heavier padding to level up the shoulders.
Ensure the width at the shoulders provide enough room so that the fabric flows smoothly from the shoulder to the sleeves.
If made too narrow, the middle deltoids are likely to bulge out at the area between the shoulders and start of the sleeves. If too wide, it can shrink the overall frame of the man.
Of importance to note in mens suits fit around shoulders is taking the shoulder's relativity against the size of the head, waistline, and neck width.
For example: when framed on a average head but shoulders are cut too narrow then there is a tendency to make the head look big in relation to the overall suiting or cut too widely then the head might look small.
The drape from the shoulder should always remain smooth. We should not see puckering of fabric along the front shoulder blade area or at the back scapula area.
The fabric around the shoulder back and front has to be wrapped flat with fullness without signs of strain or looseness.
Armholes and Sleeves
Armholes need enough space for easy slipping of the arms into it and moving it freely.
You can try the armholes wearing a flat knit sweater beneath. It should be able to fit your arms comfortably.
As mentioned earlier, high armholes provides a good drape. When trying on your mens suits, make big hand movements and you will notice high armholes will not lift your whole jacket up.
Another important aspect would be the armhole portion at your armpit should not be tight and irritate your armpit.
There should be ample space to feel comfortable where swinging your arms will not feel rupture between the armpit and the fabric.
The sleeves has to end around your mid wrist bone where the wrist breaks with the hand. It will reveal about ½ inch of your dress shirt cuffs. Often than not, we see men in suits with sleeves too long extending beyond the wrist area.
A general criteria in mens suits fit assessment is to always do it with both arms by the sides and review where the sleeves end.
Gorge
This is the portion where the collar and lapels meet extending down to the first button.
Shifts in fashion trends have influenced the highs and lows of the gorge. High gorge would mean the first button is placed higher up the suit and vice versa.
Having it too high would closely mimic the 1950s Beatles era while too low resembles the 1980s trend.
In order to avoid your suit getting out of fashion over time, it would be recommended to stay classic in design and not get too deep into one particular fashion trend unless you can afford it, of course.
I would greatly recommend having the gorge placed on a reasonable level so that the fit is symmetrical to the overall body frame.
Collars and Lapels
Collars should always hug around the back of your neck. There must not be any puckering or strain as it means that the fit is not right.
Your collar should reveal ¼ inch of your dress shirt within. Otherwise, when you sit down the suit will shift upward and envelope the collar of your dress shirt.
As mentioned before, width of the lapels is played around very often during different fashion trends in various decades.
Generally there are two choices of lapels: high notch or low notch. Whichever the choice, a good mens suits fit for lapels is to have it lie flat against your chest without puckering or buckling. Otherwise, they are signal that your suit jacket is too tight.
In classic styles, lapels should have the end tip about halfway between the suit’s top sleeve and collar.
For proper mens suits fit, make sure that the size of the lapels is symmetrically to your body frame and shoulders.
Waist
Fasten the waist button and then place both arms by your sides. If you see any buckling or pulls at the button holes or buttons seemingly popping out, then your mens suits fit is too tight around your waist.
There are some jackets tapered at the waist, and still we should not see such negative effect after fastening the waist button. Always remember that the silhouette and drape of the suit should be smooth and flat.
Suit pants
An important mens suits fit to note for in suit pants is the waist area.
It should always rest on your waist and not the hips. Resting on your hips would mean that the waist is too big for you or the pant’s rise has to be adjusted higher.
Make sure the pant’s rise provides a good fit at the crotch of the pants but giving enough room for comfort.
Drape of the pants over your lower body should always be smooth (no bulge or horizontal creasing especially under the waist area and thigh area).
The pants should float over your legs. It must not flare like hip-hop pants or hug your legs skin tight.
The natural flow of your suit pants should break at the cuffs with ease. If your pants does not have cuffs, then make sure they are hemmed.
Try walking around in your suit pants and make sure that not too much of your socks are being revealed. Pants with suitable length would only show your socks subtly.
In addition, the length of your pants will cover about a quarter the top part of your shoes, anything more than that would be considered too long.
A proper mens suits fit will not be complete without the best finishing and ending off with your suit pants. |
