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Home » Categories » Do it Yourself (DIY) » Other Do it Yourself » Tips for Inground Swimming Pool Liner Preparation and Installation! » Reprint Rights » Printer Friendly

Daniel Osko Daniel Osko (18,025)
Daniel Osko

Tips for Inground Swimming Pool Liner Preparation and Installation!

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Do you think that only the pro's can do it? Think again. Although we recommend a professional installer, with the correct tools and care most anyone can install their liner. Just follow the guide below, and you decide. A little work can save you a lot of money!


These tips apply to inground beaded vinyl liners with or without hoppers (deep ends).

Inground Beaded Liners
Preparation:
1) Drain all water from pool. (you may use a sump pump, your filtration system or siphon hose)
2) Remove all hung ladders from liner area. (and any other equipment that may obstruct liner area)
3) Remove all debris from pool and sweep out liner. (we want to keep the old liner reasonably clean)
4) Remove all face plates and gaskets from inside pool area. (i.e. thru-the-wall(s), return(s), lights, etc..)
5) Inspect all face plates, gaskets and hardware for cracks/rips and/or wear. (replace as needed)
6) Temporarily remove old liner by lifting upward to unhook it from the track. (you may want to use it later)
7) Inspect pool base and walls for cracks, holes and depressions. (repair with a sand and mortar mix)
8) Re-tape all wall seams with duct tape. (remove old duct tape first)
9) Sweep entire pool area clean. (must be free of pebbles, rocks, sharp edges and all debris!)
10) Record all measurements. (take depth from liner track to bottom, take widths from inside of walls)
11) Temporarily replace old liner, hook up in spots. (this will protect area until your new liner arrives)


Installation:
1) Temporarily unroll your new liner in a sunny, debris free area. (this will assist liner to stretch later on)
2) Disconnect and plug all water return and feed lines at filter. (usage of duct tape will surfice)
3) Remove at least one skimmer lid and replace with cardboard. (duct tape cardboard to sidewalk)
4) Duct tape any remaining skimmer lids to sidewalk. (we are creating an air tight seal)
5) Seal off any step areas with plywood. (again, duct tape the THREE sides to sidewalk)
6) Insert shop vac hose thru the cardboard skimmer lid. (duct tape well, until sealed)
7) Inspect all duct taped areas. (these must be good seals)
8) Completely remove old liner from pool area. (this can be cut up and folded into smaller sections)
9) Re-inspect pool base. (insure there is no debris, rocks, pebbles or rough areas!)
10) Fold new liner lengthwise. (take note of deep end of pool)
11) Place liner in pool area, retaining both ends. (make sure the deep end is in the deep end!)
12) Carefully unfold liner in pool area. (do not get inside pool, you can do this from outside of pool area)
13) Align liner within pool area, start at shallow end. (do not attach yet, just get the liner close)
14) Attach liner to liner track in the shallow end. (make sure your two corners are perfectly aligned!)
15) Continue attaching liner around entire pool area. (just pull liner taunt, do not stretch or allow bunches)
16) Inspect liner for exact fit. (make sure all corners are fitted correctly, adjustments can be made)
17) Gently brush and tap liner torwards the walls. (this will visually assist you in the final liner setting)
18) Final Setting! Inspect and Adjust liner as needed. (slide liner within tract to gain or lose material)
19) Duct tape liner to the fourth side of plywooded step area. (if applicable)
20) Hook up shop vac to vac hose and turn on. (this will simulate water and suck all air out of liner area)
21) Gently brush and tap liner around entire perimeter torwards the walls. (this will remove all wrinkles)
22) Inspect liner for wrinkles and alignment, if ok continue, if not shut off vac and go to step #16. (critical)
23) If all is well, start filling with water. (DO NOT SHUT OFF VACUUM or you'll get wrinkles!!!)
24) Continue to fill until at least 1" of water covers the shallow end. (periodically check for wrinkles)
25) Note: you can get inside of the pool and work out wrinkles as they appear. (gently push and pull)
26) Shut off shop vac! (Finally!)
27) Continue filling pool until one foot of water covers shallow end. (inspect for wrinkles again)
28) If you have composite steps go to step #29, for built in vinyl steps go to step #32.
29) Carefully feel the liner and locate at least two holes for bottom gasket and retaining bar.
30) Punch out holes using an awl, then attach gasket and retainer bar via hardware screws.
31) Repeat steps #29 and #30 for both of the step area side bars. (populate ALL retainer bar holes!)
32) Install all remaining face plates and gaskets. (find at least two holes per item and punch out with awl)
33) Carefully cut out all liner material from gasketed areas. (steps if applicable, returns, skimmers, etc..)
34) Remove all duct taped seals. (return and feed lines, steps, etc..)
35) Fill to appropriate operational level.
36) Hook up filtration system and any accessories.
37) Add your start up chemicals.
38) Enjoy!!!

Required Tools and Supplies:
1) Duct tape
2) Shop vac
3) Soft bristled broom
4) Tape measure
5) Extension cord
6) Awl or punch
7) Screwdrivers
8) Razor knife
9) Sump pump
10) Flat shovel
11) Garden hose
12) Possibly five gallon pail
13) Possibly masonary trowl
14) Possibly pre-washed masonary sand and mortar mix


My Background in this Industry:
I was raised in a family who has had a long history in the Swimming Pool Industry. For example, my grandfather was Chief Engineer for Muskin Pools for years, (back when they started business in Wilkes-Barre Pennsylvania), and he eventually became the Chief Operations Manager. Subsequently, Muskin employed my grandmother, mother, uncles, and father for many years to follow. In fact, my father was one of the first on ground pool installers who traveled throughout the U.S.A. installing pools for Muskin Pool customers. I even remember when I was twelve years old, my cousin and I would help our fathers install pools locally in Northeast Pennsylvania!

At the age of sixteen I decided to install pools during my schools summer vacation. I ran my own installation crew for Olympic Pools. I enjoyed it and people were quite surprised as to the quality of work a bunch of kids did! Since that time I have installed pools for Prestige Pools, Northeast Pools, Quality Pools, Poseidon Pools, and naturally for myself.

Over the years I have learned how to Install and repair swimming pools the correct way, the best way, and the most cost effective way. None of which degrades from the other. However, over the years I have also witnessed shrewd salesmen giving false information to customers in order to profit. Additionally, I have seen incompetent installers perform shoddy work and take advantage of their customers for the same purpose. Therefore, I am writing this article so that people can perform these tasks for their selves, or at least have the proper information to know if their pool related project is being done correctly.

Enjoy your summer, and stay cool!

 
Email: Questions@BubbasPools.com

 
This article is provided to you by Daniel Osko of Bubbas Pools and More! See our website, bubbaspools.com for additional information, forums, how to guides, pictures, products and more.

Please help support my free information and technical support

Thanks to everyone!
Danny Osko





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Comments on this article:


» left by Anonymous (1 year 98 days ago.)
Hi Dan,
 
Will it hurt a vinyl liner inground pool to keep it open in the winter? It gets below freezing where I live. Do I use the same chemicals all winter as I use in the summer?
 
Thank you

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(1 year 97 days ago.)

Hello,
 
If you live in an area where temperatures reach freezing..., you MUST drain your pool below the skimmer, drain your filter system and install the appropriate amount of pillows in the water.  If you don't..., Your filter will freeze and probably crack and your pool water will freeze and expand and probably slice your liner.
 
Besides, you can't run a pool with chemicals when its froozen.
 
As for chemicals and a cover?  Just remember that the closing chemicals amd cover prevent the water from turning bad and prevent algae growth and foriegn debris from entering the water (like leaves and sticks which can damage the pool).
So as for the chemicals and cover.., it is advisable to use these as well.
 
Hope this helps,
 
Danny Osko
Bubbas Bazaar Pools and More!
 

Respond to this comment

» left by Anonymous (1 year 98 days ago.)
Hello Dan,
 
We just had a inground liner pool put in, it is 16/42/24 l-shaped pool. we need to know what chemicals to put in it for the first time and in what order. The pool builder was suppose to put the first chemicals in and didn't. Everytime we ask him questions we don't get much of an answer. Building this pool has been a nightmare, I'am not sure he knows what he is doing. Can you help us?
 
                                                                       thanks so much

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(1 year 97 days ago.)

Hello,
 
First you should SHOCK your pool water using a shocking chemical.  Then vacuum it after it takes effect.  Next, add chlorine and PH Plus or PH Minus as determined by your chemical testing kit.  The chemical packages will show you the recommended dosages for your pool size in gallons.
 
You may need additional chemicals once the aforementioned are working.  Once you have these basic start-up chemicals administered, I suggest taking a water sample to your local pool store to see if any additionals are needed.
 
The start up chemicals stated above are fine for most start-ups.
 
Hope this Helps,
Dan Osko
 
Bubbas Bazaar Pools and More!
 

Respond to this comment

» left by Kevin from St. Charles MO (1 year 32 days ago.)
Reader Rating: 3.5 out of 5
Dan,
 
I am a somewhat new pool owner and have a 18' x 36' oval inground pool.
 
I had a problem last summer with water chemistry (stabilizer too high), and the "experts" at the local pool store suggested that I drain the pool and refill it with fresh water to fix that issue.
 
Well....being a new pool owner and not knowing what would happen to a vinyl-lined ingorund pool when it was completely drained, I now have a mess of wrinkles in the liner and a hole in the shallow end now after refilling. I patched the hole last spring as it was only about a 2" split.  
 
Even though the liner was just installed 3 years ago by the previous homeowners, it seemed very brittle when the pool was drained and the color is already bleached out in the deep end. I plan to get a new liner this coming spring when I open the pool, but I think the patch has come loose because the pool is losing water.
 
I closed the pool a few months ago and drained the water down about 8" below the skimmer. I went out about 3 weeks ago, pulled the cover back, and the water is down to about 3" in the shallow end. I have heard that it is not good to have an inground pool empty for long periods of time because the side walls could cave in, and I have also heard that it is not good to let a hole go unpatched as it could cause a washout or other damage to occur to the bottom of the pool underneath the liner. I will not be opening the pool for at least another 4 months, so my question is: Is it better to keep the pool filled enough to keep some weight against the sides of the pool, or is it better to let the water leak down below the hole in the liner so no water gets beneath it? I am not sure which is the lesser of the two evils. I also thought of draining the pool down now so the water level drops below the patched hole, re-patch it for now, and then fill the pool back up.
 
Any advice you could offer would be great!
 
Thanks!

Respond to this comment

» left by elizabeth from dothan,al (333 days 1 hour ago.)
Reader Rating: 5 out of 5
Hello Dan,
 
I just think this website is great! We recently bought a house with a pool that is in disrepair. I had a pool as a child very similiar to it and having had to help care for it was familiar only to the chemicals and cleaning etc. This pool is acutally drained down to about as little as two feet of water in the deep end of the pool. We have been allotted a specific amount for the pool from the sellers for the repairs. I am positive that the liner is just of a good quality or just is not old because it has been sitting for a good 8 months that I am aware of with no more water than whats in it now. The liner however is still very pliable and not very faded. There is water under the liner itself in the deep end. I am sure the liner is going to have to be taken out and the pool cleaned out well. Do you think it is reusable? The former owners took the pump with them when they left(It was a forclosure)so we werent able to "test" anything so to speak. I want to know if the cracks in the cement around the pool the deck if you would is affecting the pools stability or if they are superficial. Thanks again for the site I will be thoroughly monitoring the workers and there right or wrong progress thanks to all of your advice I feel like a smart pool owner now hopefully I will get everything right as I tell the pool people how to do it the right way!

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(332 days 5 hours ago.)

Hello Elizabeth,
 
It is not reccomended to completely drain any pool and remove the liner unless you intend on replacing it.  Since your liner is not "that faded"... that in itself tells me that it has to some degree been affected by the sun and/or chemicals.  I doubt that the liner will be re-usable, however I may be wrong without actually seeing it and feeling it in person.
 
If you do remove the liner, be CERTAIN to store it in a DARK, DAMP place, (cover the liner).  This will help keep it from shrinking.  DO NOT lay it out in sunlight!!!
 
TIP: If you have water under the liner, and the bottom is reasonably smooth... You can use WELL POINTS.  These are installed by drilling down to a depth which is below the hopper bottom.  Then the well points are installed.  These will then allow pumping of the ground water from beneath the pool.  Typically, four (4) well points are installed outside of the pool area.
 
As for the concrete.., If your walls are straight, it is probably only cosmetic and not a structural problem.
 
Hope this helps!
Dan Osko
Bubbas Pools and More!
 

Respond to this comment

» left by genevieve haston from ohio (326 days 21 hours ago.)
we have an inground pool, it had a leak last summer, we decided to wait till
 
this summer to repair it, but now the sides are starting to bulge, which I guess means they are caving in, can we still replace the liner and repair the sides and how do we do that? Thank you for any help you may have

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(326 days 20 hours ago.)

Hi Genevieve,
 
Sounds like the walls are caving in due to the lack of water in the pool, and the moist soil outside of the pool. 
 
1) If the walls are not too much out of level AND you can push them back into a level position by hand... you can probably replace the liner as is.  The walls should push back to level when the pool is filled. 
 
2) If not... You'll have to remove any walkways in the effected areas and excavate the ground in order to provide a place for the wall to move back into a level position. You may also have to replace or repair any structural braces which may have been damaged.  Once the pool is filled... then replace the earth and walkways, not before!
 
Always Here to Help,
 
Danny
Bubbas Pools and More!
 

Respond to this comment

» left by Paul from Bartlesville, OK (315 days 13 hours ago.)
Danny,

We moved into a house that has a 18x36 in-ground pool.. the liner needs to be replaced because of holes in the top corners of the shallow end.  The pool was up to full level, and I drained it just below the skimmer for the winter, so it was full all winter long.  the shape of the bottom of the pool looks good, and it didn't leak.

I just drained the pool this week to get the final measurements for the liner (before I actually found instructions online to make these measurements even with the pool full).

When the water got down where it was almost out, then the liner started to rise from water coming in from under the liner raising it up.  From what I've read this is normal if the water level in the ground is high (we just got some rain 2 nights ago, and we live in a low area).

The liner in the deep end was coming out of the track, so I was able to slide a sump pump under the liner and started pumping the water back in the pool because I read that the pool could cave in if there is enough water in the ground.

Do you think it'll be possible to get all of this water out for measurement?
It looks like it might be raining for a few days in the future so I'm a little worried.

There is some rust on the (galvanized?) walls on the sides.  I'm thinking about getting the foam insulation to glue to this to protect the liner.  what do you think about that?


Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(315 days 4 hours ago.)

Hello,
 
If your unable to record the proper measurements due to water under the liner,  I think you should wait until the pool dries out.  If your facing an ongoing ground water problem..., then you'll have to drain as much water as possible to take the measurements..., even if you have to temporarily pull back the liner to do so.
 
Measurements are more accurate when takin from inside the pool when drained or nearly drained.
 
The pool wall should be sanded and sealed with rustolium paint prior to installing the new liner.  Closed Cell Polyethylene Wall Foam is HIGHLY recommended.  It attaches to the wall with Bostak Tak Spray and Duct Tape at the seams.
 
Hope this Helps,
Dan Osko
BubbasPools and More!
 

Respond to this comment

» left by dee (248 days 15 hours ago.)
We just had an inground pool installed (5/1/09) with a liner and have started to notice hair line cracks in the cement deck. also in the deep side you can feel divots in the wall from rough areas in the cement and a 1-2 inch ledge directly under the diving board where the pool slopes down...did our installers do a bad job? Do we need to get this fixed or is it normal?

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(248 days 6 hours ago.)

Hello Dee,
 
If your concrete decking/side walk has hair line cracks, the mix the installer used is what they call a "hot mix".  This means that the concrete was already starting to setup before they installed, or it was a bad mix to begin with.  This is a big problem, as water enters the cracks the concrete will seperate more and more.  Also, if you live in an area where the temperature reaches the freezing point, the concrete will start to "pop" out pieces and chunks of concrete.  These things will start the first year and continue until your walking on "rubble".
 
If your pool base has some small divots it's normal.  If it has large divots and/or holes in the pool base... it is not.  The two inch pool base ledge at the wall area should be removed, as this will become a wear point and will also capture dirt/debris.  However, the worst thing is that your vacuum could rip or tear the liner in this area.
 
Hope this helps,
Sorry for the bad news,
 
Danny Osko
Bubbas Pools
 

Respond to this comment

» left by Dave K. from Upstate NY (239 days 17 hours ago.)
Reader Rating: 5 out of 5
Hello,
 
I live in Upstate NY and just had in inground pool installed. Soon after the deck was poured, I noticed a hairline crack on the 3' sidewalk around the pool. It starts at the pool edge and extends away from the pool about 2'. It is between two of the cut lines left by the mason. Should I insist that this is repaired before making the final payment on the pool? (The 3' sidewalk was included in the pool package.) What will happen if I do not repair it now? How much would be a reasonable price adjustment because of the problem if I choose not to have it repaired? (The pool total cost was $28,000.00 and I still owe the final payment of $2,700.00) What would you do? Thank you very much for your help and any information you can provide! Dave K.

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(237 days 6 hours ago.)

Hi Dave,
 
The answer to your question is basically the same answer I gave to Dee, (above this reply).  I would insist that the section of affected walkway be REMOVED and repoured and finished prior to making a final payment.  Why, after spending $28,000.00 on an inground pool, would you even CONSIDER leaving it as is to save a few bucks?
 
Best Regards,
Dan Osko
Bubbas Pools
 

Respond to this comment

» left by Eve from New Jersey (228 days 3 hours ago.)
Hi. we owned our above ground pool for nine years now..I must say that the liner lasted that long. Last summer the bottom was turning brown..and not able to clean or wipe..this summer we had to replace it. when we remove the old liner the sand has some algae and the wall of the pool has rust on the bottom. Is it safe to install the new liner with the rust or what should we do? Can we paint it? is it safe. Please let me know.

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(228 days 3 hours ago.)

Hi Eve,
 
Just sand down the pool wall in the affected areas and coat the areas with Rustolium Spray paint.  If you have holes in the wall... read the following:
 
 

1. Pin Holes: Sand inside area of wall. Paint area with rustolium. Cover area with duct tape.

2. Dime Size Holes: Sand inside area of wall. Paint area with rustolium. Cut
a patch made of similar wall material. Attach patch with duct tape.

3. Baseball Size Holes: Sand inside area of wall. Paint area with rustolium. Cut a patch made of similar wall material. Attach patch using rivets or nuts and bolts. Cover area with duct tape.

4. Large Holes and/or Large Area Rot/Oxidation: Add a new section of similar
wall material. The new piece should fit from DEAD CENTER of one upright to DEAD CENTER of the next upright. Remove corresponding uprights. Temporarily, on the inside of pool, clamp the new wall section over the old section of wall. Make certain the new section is seated into the lower wall track/ bottom rail. Create two bolt lines by drilling a vertical series of 5/16" holes at 2" spacing thru the old wall and the new section. Attach new section by using 1/4-20 x 1" LG Pan Head bolts, washers and nuts, (washers and nuts face outward away from pool). Paint area with rustolium. Cover bolt lines with duct tape and re-attach uprights.

NOTE: If you are attempting these repairs, and DO NOT want to buy a new
liner. Be CERTAIN that you DO NOT completely drain the pool.., your liner
will probably shrink and you'll need a new one. All of the aforementioned
repairs can be done by draining some of the water and pulling back the liner
in the affected area(s). Even a wall section can be replaced if extreme
care is taken.

NOTE: Replacement of the entire wall is not typically cost effective. It
basically evolves disassembly of the entire pool structure, a complete new
installation and a new liner.


Hope this Helps!
Danny
Bubbas Pools

Respond to this comment

» left by from Birmingham, Al (228 days 1 hour ago.)
We just bought a house with a 22 foot round 42/43 inch in ground pool (unusual--no deep section at all). It has a vinyl liner. The pool was full of nasty water with lots of debris, but it was full and not losing water. We drained the pool and removed about 1 foot of debris and sediment. Although the liner only has a couple of small bullet sized holes in the bottom, it is very discolored and stained down the sides and at the bottom. The pump and filter look to be about 3 years old, but the electrical lines were cut so we have not run them yet. Should we just order and install a new liner? Or should we do some preliminary work first (it also has very discolored vinyl steps going into the pool (about 4 -5 feet wide). What kind of window of time do we have to prevent any kind of damage -- the walls seem smooth and intact--but we don't want to risk damage now that the pool has been drained.

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(228 days ago.)

Hi Melinda,
 
First, NEVER COMPLETELY EMPTY A SWIMMING POOL!  Your liner will probably shrink and/or Wrinkle and/or crack and not be usable.
 
Additionally, if your liner is bleached out and discolored you cannot reuse it.
 
Best to order a new one... sorry but I really don't see any chance of saving it.
 
Dan Osko
Bubbas Pools
 
 

Respond to this comment
» left by (227 days 23 hours ago.)
My question was really about prep work prior to replacing the liner and/or time frame before problems with the structure itself--We really had to drain the pool to get out all the debris--we weren't sure if we could save the liner or not, but now WANT to order a new one. In the meantime, do we leave the old liner in until the new one comes in?

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(227 days 23 hours ago.)

Hi Melinda,
 
Yes, leave the liner in place until you have possession of your new liner.  The reason for this is that you don't want to take a chance of rainfall damaging your pool base. 
 
There is much more information at my website: bubbaspools (dot) com
 
Hope this Helps,
Dan Osko
Bubbas Pools
 

Respond to this comment
» left by (227 days 23 hours ago.)
Your website looks great--can I get everything I need (including, perhaps video instructions,) for the liner--especially since it is rather an odd size for an in ground pool? Also, do you have products that can clean the vinyl steps--they are very stained and discolored.

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(227 days 20 hours ago.)

Hello Melinda,
 
Thanks for the compliment!  The site took countless hours of work.  Anyway, the answer to your questions are yes... except for the video... I give step by step instructions with pictures with any liner order.
 
Contact me thru my web site and I can give you more accurate information.
 
Thank You,
Dan Osko
Bubbas Pools
 

Respond to this comment

» left by Gene from Toronto Canada (135 days 17 hours ago.)
Hi there,We have inground pool and this summer we took out the liner to change new one next summer there is no water in the pool can we live it like that for the whole winter.we are worried maybe the concert will be damaged we live in Canada.pls help

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (18,085)
Daniel Osko
(135 days 8 hours ago.)

Hi Gene,
 
Big Mistake! You should have left the old liner in the pool and patched it if needed. The water in the pool would have held your pool walls and base in place during the winter months.
 
Without water in the pool, you run the risk of your pool walls and walkways moving. Additionally, your pool base may raise and crack.
 
Although it is getting late in the season, I recommend liner replacement as soon as possible.
 
Hope this Helps,
Danny
 
Buubbas Pools
 

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