Do you think that only the pro's can do it? Think again. Although we recommend a professional installer, with the correct tools and care most anyone can install their liner. Just follow the guide below, and you decide. A little work can save you a lot of money!
These tips apply to inground beaded vinyl liners with or without hoppers (deep ends). Inground Beaded Liners
Preparation:
1) Drain all water from pool. (you may use a sump pump, your filtration system or siphon hose)
2) Remove all hung ladders from liner area. (and any other equipment that may obstruct liner area)
3) Remove all debris from pool and sweep out liner. (we want to keep the old liner reasonably clean)
4) Remove all face plates and gaskets from inside pool area. (i.e. thru-the-wall(s), return(s), lights, etc..)
5) Inspect all face plates, gaskets and hardware for cracks/rips and/or wear. (replace as needed)
6) Temporarily remove old liner by lifting upward to unhook it from the track. (you may want to use it later)
7) Inspect pool base and walls for cracks, holes and depressions. (repair with a sand and mortar mix)
8) Re-tape all wall seams with duct tape. (remove old duct tape first)
9) Sweep entire pool area clean. (must be free of pebbles, rocks, sharp edges and all debris!)
10) Record all measurements. (take depth from liner track to bottom, take widths from inside of walls)
11) Temporarily replace old liner, hook up in spots. (this will protect area until your new liner arrives)
Installation:
1) Temporarily unroll your new liner in a sunny, debris free area. (this will assist liner to stretch later on)
2) Disconnect and plug all water return and feed lines at filter. (usage of duct tape will surfice)
3) Remove at least one skimmer lid and replace with cardboard. (duct tape cardboard to sidewalk)
4) Duct tape any remaining skimmer lids to sidewalk. (we are creating an air tight seal)
5) Seal off any step areas with plywood. (again, duct tape the THREE sides to sidewalk)
6) Insert shop vac hose thru the cardboard skimmer lid. (duct tape well, until sealed)
7) Inspect all duct taped areas. (these must be good seals)
8) Completely remove old liner from pool area. (this can be cut up and folded into smaller sections)
9) Re-inspect pool base. (insure there is no debris, rocks, pebbles or rough areas!)
10) Fold new liner lengthwise. (take note of deep end of pool)
11) Place liner in pool area, retaining both ends. (make sure the deep end is in the deep end!)
12) Carefully unfold liner in pool area. (do not get inside pool, you can do this from outside of pool area)
13) Align liner within pool area, start at shallow end. (do not attach yet, just get the liner close)
14) Attach liner to liner track in the shallow end. (make sure your two corners are perfectly aligned!)
15) Continue attaching liner around entire pool area. (just pull liner taunt, do not stretch or allow bunches)
16) Inspect liner for exact fit. (make sure all corners are fitted correctly, adjustments can be made)
17) Gently brush and tap liner torwards the walls. (this will visually assist you in the final liner setting)
18) Final Setting! Inspect and Adjust liner as needed. (slide liner within tract to gain or lose material)
19) Duct tape liner to the fourth side of plywooded step area. (if applicable)
20) Hook up shop vac to vac hose and turn on. (this will simulate water and suck all air out of liner area)
21) Gently brush and tap liner around entire perimeter torwards the walls. (this will remove all wrinkles)
22) Inspect liner for wrinkles and alignment, if ok continue, if not shut off vac and go to step #16. (critical)
23) If all is well, start filling with water. (DO NOT SHUT OFF VACUUM or you'll get wrinkles!!!)
24) Continue to fill until at least 1" of water covers the shallow end. (periodically check for wrinkles)
25) Note: you can get inside of the pool and work out wrinkles as they appear. (gently push and pull)
26) Shut off shop vac! (Finally!)
27) Continue filling pool until one foot of water covers shallow end. (inspect for wrinkles again)
28) If you have composite steps go to step #29, for built in vinyl steps go to step #32.
29) Carefully feel the liner and locate at least two holes for bottom gasket and retaining bar.
30) Punch out holes using an awl, then attach gasket and retainer bar via hardware screws.
31) Repeat steps #29 and #30 for both of the step area side bars. (populate ALL retainer bar holes!)
32) Install all remaining face plates and gaskets. (find at least two holes per item and punch out with awl)
33) Carefully cut out all liner material from gasketed areas. (steps if applicable, returns, skimmers, etc..)
34) Remove all duct taped seals. (return and feed lines, steps, etc..)
35) Fill to appropriate operational level.
36) Hook up filtration system and any accessories.
37) Add your start up chemicals.
38) Enjoy!!!
Required Tools and Supplies:
1) Duct tape
2) Shop vac
3) Soft bristled broom
4) Tape measure
5) Extension cord
6) Awl or punch
7) Screwdrivers
8) Razor knife
9) Sump pump
10) Flat shovel
11) Garden hose
12) Possibly five gallon pail
13) Possibly masonary trowl
14) Possibly pre-washed masonary sand and mortar mix
My Background in this Industry:
I was raised in a family who has had a long history in the Swimming Pool Industry. For example, my grandfather was Chief Engineer for Muskin Pools for years, (back when they started business in Wilkes-Barre Pennsylvania), and he eventually became the Chief Operations Manager. Subsequently, Muskin employed my grandmother, mother, uncles, and father for many years to follow. In fact, my father was one of the first on ground pool installers who traveled throughout the U.S.A. installing pools for Muskin Pool customers. I even remember when I was twelve years old, my cousin and I would help our fathers install pools locally in Northeast Pennsylvania!
At the age of sixteen I decided to install pools during my schools summer vacation. I ran my own installation crew for Olympic Pools. I enjoyed it and people were quite surprised as to the quality of work a bunch of kids did! Since that time I have installed pools for Prestige Pools, Northeast Pools, Quality Pools, Poseidon Pools, and naturally for myself.
Over the years I have learned how to Install and repair swimming pools the correct way, the best way, and the most cost effective way. None of which degrades from the other. However, over the years I have also witnessed shrewd salesmen giving false information to customers in order to profit. Additionally, I have seen incompetent installers perform shoddy work and take advantage of their customers for the same purpose. Therefore, I am writing this article so that people can perform these tasks for their selves, or at least have the proper information to know if their pool related project is being done correctly.
This article is provided to you by Daniel Osko of Bubbas Bazaar Pools and More! See our website, bubbasbazaar.com for additional information, forums, how to guides, pictures, products and more.
» left by Daniel Osko(16,805) Daniel Osko (1 year 204 days ago.)
I need more information for an appropriate response.
1) Is this an inground hung pool liner?
2) How bad is the liner "torn up"? What size are the rips or holes?
3) How "pliable" is the liner, is it still stretchable?
4) Is ther any water in it? If so, about how much?
5) What do you mean by the sand being "dried up" and "big dents"
6) How old is the liner/pool?
7) What state or area do you live in? (for climate information only)
If you answer these questions, I would feel much more comfortable in providing a realistic diagnoses of your situation.
» left by MaRC MILLSAP from alabama (194 days 2 hours ago.)
This an inground pool that has been sitting for aver ten years the liner has deteriorated to the point that its hard to tell that it ever had one, there are some small trees growing in the pool bottom, this pool is kidney shaped with molded in steps and has a diving board, pool deck is in great shape and fiberglass side walls appear good but bottom is in pretty bad shape I also have photos available Respond to this comment
Well it seems clear that you need a new liner and will have to resurface your pool base with a mix of masonry sand and mortar (2:1 ratio). If you send me pics and the over length and width of pool..., I can send you the drawings for the pool base dimensions. You can then use these dimensions to resurface your bottom and order a new liner. Send pics to pools at bubbasbazaar dot com
Best Regards,
Dan Osko
Bubbas Bazaar Pools and More!
» left by Anita from TN (167 days 6 hours ago.)
We have a above ground 24 ft round pool with beaded liner. We have made our share of mistakes in the past. What size liner is recommended for this? 48 or 52inch? How can we make sure? We have put several in and the last one was last year it broke at the seam. I think it was a 48 inch. In the past we did put in a 52 inch but had maybe to many wrinkles because of this. I don't think our pool is a normal level at the bottom. Got any suggestions?? Also when we always seem to have the liner popping out at the top, have put pennies in to hold it. Should this be??? We are in the process of ordering and trying to put in one this week...Any advise would be helpful.
In order to purchase the correct above ground beaded liner for your pool.., you must measure the height of the pool wall.. Measure this from the bottom of the "bottom rail" to the top of the "top rail". It should be 42", 52" or 54". Whatever the measurement.., that is the pool liner side wall height that you MUST order.
Your sanded pool base cannot be more than 2" higher than the bottom of the "bottom rail" and your sanded coving cannot exceed more than 4" above that. Else you WILL get wrinkles. You may need to resurface and level your entire pool base.
Beaded liners, on occasion, do "pop" out of the liner receptor. The answer to this is to use WEDGED LINER LOCK. This is a plastic pliable material that fits between your pool liners bead and the liner receptor.., it will prevent the liner from "popping" or slipping out of the liner receptor track.
Hope this helps!
Best Regards,
Dan Osko Bubbaz Bazaar Pools and More!
» left by Daniel Osko from Bubbas Bazaar (167 days 6 hours ago.) NOTICE:I am happy to announce the upcoming release of: Bubbas Bazaar's Almost Complete Guide to Swimming Pools
Save hundreds or thousands of dollars by reading this book!
Learn how to professionally install a swimming pool, install a liner, repair a liner, repair a pool structure, open and close a pool, maintain a pool and keep yours looking like new. Learn about filtration systems, chemicals, safety, usage and design. You'll also receive free lifetime updates to the book and have access to a members only exclusive forum!
For more information, please see my home page listed within this article.
Best Regards,
Dan Osko Bubbas Bazaar Pools and More!
» left by David from Macon, GA (159 days 2 hours ago.)
We have an inground vinyl pool liner which is torn (about 3 feet horizontally) towards the top of one of the corners in the deep end. The liner is about 7 years old and is still pretty pliable. Up until recently, it has been full of water, but there is currently only a minimal amount in the bottom. We live in middle Georgia, so the climate is pretty hot and humid. Is there any way of patching the rip, rather than having to replace the liner altogether?
Although you may want to try to patch your pool liner, I do not recommend it for the following reasons:
1) Size of tear
2) Location of tear. (corners have more stresses than side walls)
3) Age of Liner
4) The liner has probably shrunk
5) If there is too much stress on the patch it will give way.
If you want to try it, I would suggest using a CLEAR vinyl patch (comes in a roll), and liner CEMENT (comes in a metal can). These items should be available at most local pool stores and this type has the best bonding ability. Round the corners of each patch prior to application. (this will help the patch from rolling up on the corners). Evenly spread the glue onto the patch. Patch BOTH sides of the effected area, (one at a time). Apply pressure to entire patch for at least five minutes or until it stays in place. Re-hook liner and fill with water. There is NEVER a garantee that a patch will hold!
If you cannot find a large enough patch, use a piece of NEW vinyl liner material.
But I still do not advise a patch of that size, in that area, on a liner that old, that has little water in it.
Best Regards,
Dan Osko Bubbas Bazaar Pools and More!
» left by Mary from Williamsport MD (158 days 3 hours ago.)
Hello,
I also have a question about an above ground pool only one year young. I noticed about two weeks ago dents in the outside metal from the inside protruding out at the bottom. They appear to be below the water line on the outside of the pool. The company who I bought the pool from had to replace the liner after only one month last year because of a split in the seam. I have no idea what is causing the dents. Do YOU?
The dents are either caused from mis-handling of the wall upon installation or the liner was hung too tight and is causing the wall to bend and crease.
» left by Mario from Plainview, NY (132 days 7 hours ago.)
Hi Dan,
I just had a new liner installed in my 16x32 rectangular 20,000 gallon in-ground pool by a company in Farmingdale, NY.
Unfortunately, I was not around when they layed the liner in the pool to check that the sand bottom was flat. I trusted that they would do that as part of being a professional.
As the pool filled with water, I noticed some small indentations where the water was collecting on the low end of the pool. I also noticed a 1 foot long wrinkle on the wall near the corner. When I asked about them I was told they would flatten out from the water pressure. The entire pool was filled before we started a new concrete paver patio.
After having to wait a month before going into the pool because of a new patio being installed (and plenty of dust collecting at the bottom of the pool), I had someone vacuum my pool. He used a 1HP Hayward pump and canister filter combo. The head of the brush has bristles about a ½ inch long. As he began cleaning the low end, he noticed that the vac was getting stuck. He was pulling the vac towards him when this happened. As he was vacuuming he noticed the pool bottom still had quite a few indentations that looked like footprints. He thinks the vac was sticking more because of these. He stopped vacuuming after realizing he made a few wrinkles in the bottom of the pool.
When I contacted the company that installed the liner, the owner came to the house within two days to inspect my claim. He told me that the vacuum was too strong and therefore, caused the wrinkles on the floor. He claimed between the heat causing the liner to flex more and the fact that the floor was new and soft that the vacuum needed to be toned down by using a gate valve. He said that a sand pool bottom will never be very flat and if I wanted it flat we would have had to do a concrete bottom which would have been $3,000 more. He never before warned us about using too strong a vacuum. When I said that the floor should have been tampered down and very flat and no one should have been standing in the pool after that, he brushed it off by saying the footprints would be made by anyone going in the pool in the first season with a new liner.
He offered to attempt to plunge out the wrinkles on the bottom caused by the vac and said he thinks he can push the wall wrinkle into the corner. He said he would do this after we closed the pool and removed about 2 feet of water to relieve some of the pressure.
How would you handle this situation? I am upset that I spent $2,500 on a new liner and the floor on the shallow end is not flat.
1) Typically all Installers patch any areas which are degraded. They typically use a 1:2 mix of Portland and pre-washed masonry sand. This should have been done.
Additionally, In-Ground pools NEVER just use sand. they use sand and mortar, or sand and vermiculite, or gunite, or concrete, (depending on the areas climate).
2) If you had a wrinkle near the corner of your pool, then the liner was not aligned and/or installed correctly. The wrinkle will NOT flatten out and go away! I despise installers that outright lie to their customers.
3) When vacuuming it is better to use forward motions, pulling backwards on the vacuum has a tendency of "hanging it up". But it should NOT have made any wrinkles. They were probably already there or were a result of the indentations.
4) I have a 1-1/2 Horse Power Pump for my small above ground and have NEVER had a problem. Actually a 1-1/2 HP pump is what I'd recommend for your pool. So if this guy told you that your pump was to strong..., he is either a liar an idiot or both. AND you don't get footprints in inground pools if properly installed.
» left by Kathe from Baton Rouge, LA (124 days 6 hours ago.)
It just came up. Thanks so much for providing all of this info. Wish us luck on the install of our 33' round liner (BIG A/G pool). We're first time pool owners and it was free so we'll see how it goes. Will update.
» left by Robert from Canada - Ontario (122 days 4 hours ago.)
Dan - you know your stuff. I'm just about to check out your site.
BackGround: I have an inground pool ~32x16 and the preveous owners had a 16yr old son who was very hard on the pool, putting about 10-12 small quarter sized holes in the liner - shallow and deep end. The liner has10-12 patches that have been put on by both the preveous owner and myself. I find the underwater patches do come off after a while (mainly when vacuuming), esp. in the deep end where it's hard to get a lot of pressure when applying the patch, b/c I'm out of breath. The pool does leak when one or two patches come off, I feel like I am patching 2-3 spots (rotate through the tears) every month. Damage seems to be caused by sharp objects in the pool, like metal lawn chairs etc... but I can not rule out that the deep end has some sharp stones/pebbles under the liner. I can see concrete through the holes in the deep end - that's good I think. The majority of the holes are in the deep end, so I was thinking perhaps water table (b/c the pool leaks) may have allowed ingress of debris behind/under?
Question: Do you think I should get a new liner, or drain and patch the liner with the water out of the pool? Use a super glue etc... Other then the 10-12 spots, the liner seems to be in good shape 5yrs old.
First, you cannot drain your pool to repair it. Because after 5 years it will shrink and probably become brittle. Thus it will not stretch back into its seated position of the pool structure..., so it will either pull out of the liner receptor or rip from brittleness and/or added stresses.
It is possible that your pool base bottom may have "floated" upward and cracked due to the water table or it may have cracked due to climatic conditions, (freeze&thaw), or one of the holes may have erroded the pool base leaving pieces of pool base under the liner.
However, the most likely culprit(s) are improper vacuuming. You should ALWAYS push a vacuum forward, do not pull backwards because they tend to catch the liner and possibly tear them. (I've seen this numerous times). The other possibility is that the liner was never properly installed. Meaning that the installer did not properly repair and patch the pool base and/or completely clean the pool base of debris prior to the actual install.
It is difficult to say exactly what the cause is without personally seeing the pool. But if you are sure it is not from vacuuming, then I suggest replacement because there is obviously something wrong with your pool base.
If you choose to continue patching your pool, use clear vinyl patches, (comes on a roll, and Pool Patch Cement, (comes in a can). Round the corners of your patches to help prevent them from turning upwards and curling on you. Evenly spread the glue over the entire surface of the patch. You must apply pressure for atleast 5 minutes for bonding to take place. Since the holes are in the deep end, I suggest using a weighted object to hold the patch in place.
i just had a new liner installed in my 44 x 22' in-ground kidney shaped pool
we paid 5k (is that an ok price?) and the bottom has a few wrinkles - should this be acceptable? or should the bottom be perfect? - it is a vermiculite bottom.
also there are 3 areas around the rim that do not meet the liner track- about 2" - he said his guys would fix that the next day with hot water but when they came they were not able to do so.
there is also a big gap in the rounded corner above top step. - i paid him the full amount already - should i call the credit card company to hold payment until this is corrected?
I hope that amount was for the liner and the installation! Liner cost would be about $2,500 for a TRUE 28 Mil, 100% virgin vinyl liner (including typical steps). Installation around $1,400. (maybe a little more for the steps if their is complicated cutting involved).
But you should not have any wrinkles, or big gaps near the step or have the liner out of the track! Especially for that amount.
Call backs occasionally do happen..., but when they do, you fix them.
We are replacing our liner and we had opened the main drain's ring cap but it was broken. We had gone to many pool store but none had the one we were looking for. I searched on the internet and found out the ring was made by Jacuzzi, as you may or may not know Jacuzzi is "out of business". None of the stores we had visted had any Jacuzzi products. So we thought of another way to fix this problem and thought to completely replace the main drain. It is very hard to completely take out the main drain, because under verrmiculite there is concrete. What should we do about the broken main drain ring cap?Should we take the cap to a plastics company so the can make a new one?
Although, the purpose of this article is not to sell products, I can probably get you the part if you email me privatlely at the email address at the end of the article.
WE JUST HAD A L SHAPED 16/24/42 INGROUND LINER POOL PUT IN .
THE LINER HAS SEVERAL LARGE WRINKLES IN IT AND THE BOTTOM OF THE POOL IS SOFT LIKE WALKING IN MUD. IT ALSO HAS LOTS OF FOOTPRINTS IN IT. IS THIS NORMAL?
No, this is not even close to normal. Your bottom should be hard without foot prints and your liner should be wrinkle free. If you paid for the installation..., CALL THEM BACK.
We just had a inground liner pool put in. In a few places it feels like a rock is underneath the liner. Is this normal ? Also we have soft places in the shallow end which is making footprints. Is this normal and will it damage the liner. We also have wrinkles in the pool . Is this normal or did we just hire the wrong person? We also have a bad leak somewhere . The pool guy said for us to let the pool leak down as far as it will go then he could find the leak. Is that right ? He also told us the wrinkles were normal and he couldn't do anything about them. He also said the shallow end would firm up and for us to just take our foot and smooth out the bottom of the pool. That doesn't work. When the pool lights are on at night the pool looks terrible at the shallow end because it has so many footprints. If you have any advise at all we sure would appreciate it. We checked this guy out really good before hiring him but I believe we made a very bad mistake.
Well, it appears as though you've been swindled. Bottom should be firm, there should not be ANY foot prints, soft spots or wrinkles. There especially should not be ant leaks in a brand new liner! I'd make him repair it, pay for the lost water and buy a new liner if it is ripped. This guy apparently did not even sweep the pool out prior to installing a new liner! WOW!!!!
If you need help repairing this mess, let me know.
Thanks for your response.We have already paid this guy 22,000.00 to put this pool in. He says everything above is normal . except for the leak but he has not done anything about it. As I said above, he said to just let the water leak out then he will be able to find it. So we have a new pool with a soft bottom with footprints , large wrinkles and a large leak. As you can imagine we are just sick. We checked this guy out really well . His other customers could't say enough good things about him. We went to look at the pools he has put in and they looked good. They are not having any problems with their pools. We can't understand why he made such a big mess out of our pool. We haven't poured the concrete around the pool yet because we are trying to find the leak. We can't let the pump run one day without the water getting below the skimmers. We sure would appreciate any help you could give us on how to fix this mess. We can't even get him to call us back. I really don't think he will fix all these problems for us. He's got most of his money and all he says is he can't help the wrinkles and the bottom will set up when we pour the concrete. I have never been in any inground pool that has a soft bottom, like walking in mud. We are desperate for you help, we can't afford to pay someone eles to come in and fix this mess. If we can find the leak and fix it ,will it damage the liner anymore to leave the wrinkles and soft bottom alone and use the pool the way it is? Or can we take the liner out fix the bottom and still use the same liner if the liner dosen't have a hole in it? We don't know if the leak is coming from a hole in the liner or a pipe leaking. We have no idea where all the water is going out of the pool.
Thanks so much,
We need all the advice and help you could give us.
Sorry for the delayed response, I just finished writting a Muskin Oval Instalation Manual for a customer. Anyway..., on to your problems.
As for your bottom being soft, this could be caused by poor drainage, excessive run off water, your bottom drain or a leak. Since you are aware that you do have a leak..., this is the most likely reason that your bottom is soft. Since your bottom is soft wrinkles and foot prints may have occured after the pool was being filled and someone walked in the soft area.
You must find the leak! You can let the pool drain until it stops and check the waters perimeter to find the leak. Or, you can use some food coloring in a spray bottle and get in the pool and spray the coloring near suspected areas of the leak. The food coloring will colminate at the leak thus exposing it. Be careful not to stir the water up, or this won't work. Be sure to check your drain, if you have one.
Once the leak is found, repair from the outside/dryside of the liner with vinyl cement (comes in a can), and clear patch material, (comes in a roll). Round the corners of the patch and apply an even coat of cement over the ENTIRE patch before applying. Hold for at least 5 minutes to cure. (This willl look astetically better than a patch on the water side)!
Unfortunatley, You will probably have to pull back the liner to repair and clean out the pool base.
You are not liable for any of this work, the company who sold you the pool is. If your installer won't resolve the problems, call the dealorship or even the manufacturer. (The dealer won't want the manufacturer to pull there license!) If all else fails, take them to court.
» left by Rosey from Tallahassee, FL (95 days 7 hours ago.)
Hi Dan,
After TS Fay gave us over 2 feet of rain, our in-ground vinyl pool liner has pulled away from the side and is sagging in other places. The liner is barely over a year old. I have called the installer twice and he has not returned our calls yet. Can you please explain what may be involved in repairing this problem? Will the pool have to be drained to fix it? Your advice would be greatly appreciated. - Rosey
First, you need to allow the ground water to subside. Once the pool base has dried out you must inspect the bottom for wash outs, rocks, debris, setteling of the base ect. (simply get in the pool and look at and feel the liner to diagnose if you have any problems). If all is well, simply rehook the liner and you should be fine. If not, you will have to remove the liner and store it in a dark, damp place and follow the above instructions for re-installing it.
We just had a inground liner pool put in. The problem is, the skimmer in the deep end is working fine but the shallow end skimmer is not doing anything. It has no suction at all.
Is this normal ? The pool man said it was. I had a pool years ago at my old house and both skimmers worked the same. If it's not normal would you please tell us how we can check it out? We would appreciate any advice you could give us.
This is NOT normal, however it is possible that you have lower flow at your shallow end skimmer due to the distance it is from the filter. (water will take the path of least resistance... so the closer the one skimmer, the more suction and the furter the second skimmer the least).
However, if your plumbing was installed correctly, you should be getting at least SOME suction in the shallow end. In order to check this, start your filter and plug the deep end skimmer up, (you can use a pool plug or a small ball, ect...), this way the suction MUST be diverted to the shallow end skimmer. If you get very little or no suction... you either have a blockage in the plumbing or a broken pipe or a valve that may be closed.
Find out which of the above applies, and write me back. I'll then suggest a course of action to rectify the problem.
Will it hurt a vinyl liner inground pool to keep it open in the winter? It gets below freezing where I live. Do I use the same chemicals all winter as I use in the summer?
If you live in an area where temperatures reach freezing..., you MUST drain your pool below the skimmer, drain your filter system and install the appropriate amount of pillows in the water. If you don't..., Your filter will freeze and probably crack and your pool water will freeze and expand and probably slice your liner.
Besides, you can't run a pool with chemicals when its froozen.
As for chemicals and a cover? Just remember that the closing chemicals amd cover prevent the water from turning bad and prevent algae growth and foriegn debris from entering the water (like leaves and sticks which can damage the pool).
So as for the chemicals and cover.., it is advisable to use these as well.
We just had a inground liner pool put in, it is 16/42/24 l-shaped pool. we need to know what chemicals to put in it for the first time and in what order. The pool builder was suppose to put the first chemicals in and didn't. Everytime we ask him questions we don't get much of an answer. Building this pool has been a nightmare, I'am not sure he knows what he is doing. Can you help us?
First you should SHOCK your pool water using a shocking chemical. Then vacuum it after it takes effect. Next, add chlorine and PH Plus or PH Minus as determined by your chemical testing kit. The chemical packages will show you the recommended dosages for your pool size in gallons.
You may need additional chemicals once the aforementioned are working. Once you have these basic start-up chemicals administered, I suggest taking a water sample to your local pool store to see if any additionals are needed.
The start up chemicals stated above are fine for most start-ups.
Disclaimer: All information on this site is provided for informational purposes only! By no means is any
information presented herein intended to substitute for the advice provided to you by any health care or other professional
or organization.
