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There are three main types of cultured saltwater pearls: akoya,
Tahitian, and South Sea.
Pearls can be cultured in fresh water as well. Each type has distinct characteristics,
and each is very beautiful in its own way. Like with most things, individual
tastes determine pearl preferences. Or you may have a taste for every pearl variety!
The following is a look at the main types of cultured pearls.
Akoya Cultured Pearls
Timeless and popular, the akoya cultured pearl probably comes
to mind when you think of pearls. (Because akoyas are easier to match than
other pearls, they are a popular choice for bracelets and necklaces.) These
saltwater beauties are typically small (they range between 2mm and 11mm
average is 6mm-7mm), and are most commonly white or cream-colored.
Akoyas are produced in the akoya oyster, or P. fucata, the smallest of the saltwater
pearl oysters. The main animals used for saltwater pearl culturing in Japan,
these small oysters typically reach only 8cm to 13cm in diameter, but they can
accept multiple nucleations—up to five at a time. (If a larger pearl is
desired, however, only one bead is inserted.)
Akoya pearls were the first round cultured pearls—called
“spherical" in the jewelry trade—that were produced. Approximately 70%-80% of a
given akoya crop is spherical. Typically white or cream with rosé or green
overtones, akoyas typically grow from eight months to two years before they’re
harvested. A jewelry staple, the simple and classic white akoya strand is a
popular choice for brides.
Tahitian Cultured
Pearls
If you think of black pearls, you probably picture a
peacock-blue-sheened Tahitian. This is a desirable hue for a Tahitian cultured
pearl, but they can also be black, gray or brown with hues of blue, green, and
purple and overtones of rosé, green or blue. Marketed just since the 1970s,
Tahitians are revered for their exotic colors and large sizes, and, as you may
have noticed, their large price tag reflects their relative rarity.
Tahitian pearls are produced mainly in French
Polynesia in the so-called “black-lipped" oyster, P. margaritifera, a large saltwater
mollusk that can grow up to 12 inches in diameter, weigh up to 11 lbs. and live
up to 30 years. These oysters produce pearls that reach 8mm-14mm in size in a
growth period that takes about two years.
Tahitian cultured pearls typically show fair to excellent
luster, and achieve this by natural means, unlike akoyas and freshwater
cultured pearls, which require treatment—usually bleaching—to bring out their
sheen. When Tahitians are harvested, farmers wash them in fresh water, dry them
and lightly buff them, usually by tumbling the gems with ground salt and bamboo
chips.
P margaritifera
can be nucleated, or implanted, several times over its lifetime, but in
general, the first harvest produces the finest quality pearl. Unlike its
smaller cousin, the akoya, Tahitian cultured pearls are spherical less than
half the time. For this reason, it may take years to find just the right pearls
to match for a necklace. This is one of the reasons why a matched strand of
Tahitian cultured pearls is so costly. Because they can often come in unique
shapes, however, Tahitians are used by many jewelry designers in pieces that
feature a single pearl. These pieces are uniquely beautiful and can be as
breathtaking as a costly Tahitian strand.
South Sea Cultured Pearls
P. maxima, one of
the world’s largest mollusks, produces the magnificent South
Sea cultured pearl, generally the
largest cultured pearl on the market. As its name implies, the South
Sea cultured pearl is produced in Australia,
Indonesia and
the Philippines. (The cultured pearl is the national gem of the Philippines.)
Most South Sea
pearls are silver, white, or a gorgeous and coveted golden color. Farmers do
not treat these pearls after harvest, although some wholesale buyers do so
after export.
Unlike a freshwater pearl mollusk, P. maxima can accept only one nucleation at a time however the
oyster can be nucleated up to three times in its lifetime. After nucleation, the
South Sea cultured pearl requires 20-24 months to grow, and typically produces
a pearl around 13mm, although some reach 15mm or larger. Between 10%-30% of any
given crop contains spherical pearls. Australia
produces about 60 percent of the supply of South
Sea cultured pearls, although
Indonesian farmers produce more of the golden variety than Australian farmers
do.
Freshwater Cultured
Pearls
Unlike their saltwater cousins, freshwater pearls are
produced in mollusks rather than oysters, and, like their name implies, are
grown in ponds, lakes and rivers rather than in the ocean. Most of today’s
freshwater cultured pearls are produced in China,
and, thanks to improvements in culturing techniques, the round, high-luster
gems of today are a vast improvement over the inexpensive, squishy
rice-krispie-shaped gems typical of the freshwater crop of yesteryear. Indeed
many experts maintain that today’s freshwater cultured pearls rival the beauty
of saltwater cultured pearls—a far cry from the freshwater pearl’s humble
reputation from the not-so-distant past.
Freshwater cultured pearls are produced in mussels belonging
to the family Unionidae. Most are
grown in China,
yet the United Sates produces its fair share. In fact, the mother-of-pearl
beads used to induce the pearl growing process worldwide are made from ground
American mussel shells.
Many freshwater pearls are nucleated, or implanted, with
mantle tissue only, which is taken from a donor mussel. Because they do not contain
a starter “bead," tissue-nucleated freshwater pearls are 100% nacre. This gives
them a beautiful luster and a durable surface that won’t flake or peel to
reveal the inner bead. By contrast, pearls that are bead-nucleated and prematurely
harvested often have only a thin coating of nacre that is prone to flaking and
chipping. Unfortunately, pearls cannot be polished back to perfection once
they’re destroyed.
Freshwater pearl-producing mussels can accept up to 50
implants at a time. They typically require 2-6 years to grow, and the finished
pearl typically ranges in size from 4mm to 11mm. Larger freshwater pearls do
exist, although their bigger size will likely be reflected in a bigger price
tag. Approximately 60% of a typical freshwater pearl crop is made up of button
pearls (flat on one side) or oval pearls. Only about 2% of the harvest is
round, according to the latest information from the Gemological Institute of
America. Baroque (no symmetry) and semi-baroque pearls typically make up the
remainder of the crop. As with Tahitians and other pearl types, in a skilled
designer’s hands, these unique pearls can be turned into extremely beautiful
jewelry.
When it comes to color, the freshwater cultured pearl offers
a wonderful variety. Pastels like cream, white, yellow, orange, and pink are
common. And universally flattering lavender pearls are enjoying a surge in
popularity today. When deciding which color freshwater pearls to buy, keep in
mind that the wearer’s skin tone should be the most important consideration.
Choose a color that will flatter and not detract. Overall, freshwater pearls
are more plentiful than other pearl types, thus they are usually more
affordable. Your budget may allow you to choose a few different colors!
Conclusion
Whatever your taste or budget, there is sure to be cultured
pearl jewelry that will thrill you. Choose carefully, treat them with care, and
your pearls will give you a lifetime of pleasure, no matter which variety you
choose.
A graduate of the
Gemological Institute of America’s Graduate Pearls program, Amy Drescher is
a fashion writer and accessories buyer for www.moonriverpearls.com. She
welcomes your questions. Reach her at adrescher@moonriverpearls.com.
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