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Home » Categories » Do it Yourself (DIY) » Home Improvement » Tips for above Ground Swimming Pool Liner Preparation and Installation! » Reprint Rights » Printer Friendly

Daniel Osko

Tips for above Ground Swimming Pool Liner Preparation and Installation!

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Submitted Sunday, May 07, 2006
Daniel Osko (19,020)
Daniel Osko

Bubbas Pools
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NEW!  Updated to include overlap and beaded liners.

Do you think that only the pro's can do it? Think again. Although we recommend a professional installer, with the correct tools and care most anyone can install their liner. Just follow the guide below, and you decide. A little work can save you a lot of money!

These tips now apply to above ground overlap and beaded vinyl liners without hoppers (deep ends).

Preparation:

1) Drain all water from pool.
     (you may use a sump pump, your filtration system or siphon hose)

2) Remove all ladders from pool liner area.
    (and any other equipment that may obstruct liner area)

3) Remove all face plates and gaskets from inside pool area.
    (i.e. thru-the-wall(s), return(s), lights, etc..)

4) Inspect all face plates, gaskets and hardware for cracks/rips and/or wear.
    (replace as needed)

5) For overlap liners, remove seat clamps, pool ledges, top plates and top rail.
    (basically the top end of pool)
    For beaded liners, you should be able to skip this step.

6) Remove old liner.
    (you can use a razor knife and cut into smaller pieces for easier removal)

7) Inspect pool base and cove for wash outs and eveness. 
    Repair A/G pools with a masonary sand. (for non-formed pool base)
    Repair A/G pools with two parts sand to one part mortar. (for formed pool base)

8) Re-tape wall bolt seam with duct tape.
    (remove old duct tape first)

9) Sweep entire pool area clean.
    (must be free of pebbles, rocks, sharp edges and all debris!)

Installation:

1) Temporarily unroll your new liner in a sunny, debris free area.
    (this will assist liner to stretch later on)

2) Seal the thru-the-wall skimmer area with cardboard.
    (attach with duct tape on the outside of pool wall)

3) Seal the water return, lighting holes with duct tape.
    (duct tape from outside of pool wall)

4) Insert 2' of shop vac hose thru the cardboarded skimmer area.
    (in a downward orientation, towards the pool base)
    (duct tape well, until sealed)

5) Inspect all duct taped areas. (these must be good seals)

6) Re-inspect pool base. (insure there is no debris, rocks, pebbles or rough areas!)

7) For overlap liners, attach two wooden clothes pins to each upright.
    For beaded liners, step seven is not required.

8) Fold new liner in halves until it is about 2-3 feet wide and is full in length.

9) Place liner in pool area, retaining both ends and center.
    (get some help! don't let the entire liner fall inside pool area!)

10) Carefully unfold liner in pool area.
      (do not get inside pool, you can do this from outside of pool area)

11) For overlap liners, attach liner to pool wall using the clothes pins.
      (pull liner about 6" over the wall and attach)
      For beaded liners, simply snap the liner bead into liner receptor.

12) Evenly pull liner further over the wall, adjusting clothes pins as needed.
     (to about 15")
      For beaded liners, skip this step and go to step #13.

13) Gently brush and tap liner torwards the walls.
      (this will visually assist you in the final liner setting)

14) Inspect and Adjust liner as needed.
      (insure that the bottom seam is even all around the perimeter)

15) Now get some help!
      Have your helpers stand around the pool perimeter to hold the wall.
      (we don't want the wall to fall! This next step will happen fast!)

16) Hook up shop vac to vac hose and turn on.
      (this will simulate water and suck all air out of liner area)

17) Release liner EVENLY as it tightens by releasing and attaching clothes pins.
      (while doing step #18)
      For beaded liners, skip this step and go to step #18.

18) Gently brush and tap liner around entire perimeter torwards the walls.
      (this will remove all wrinkles)

19) Continue releasing and brooming the liner until it is seated and even!
      Seating is complete when you are left with a 2" to 4" air gap between the liner and wall.
      This measurement is taken at the juntion where the cove meets the wall.
      Use a push broom to push on the liner in this area for your approximate air gap!
      (if not, go to step #12)
      For beaded liners continue brooming until the liner is even and concentric.
      (if not, go to step #12)

20) Inspect liner for wrinkles and alignment, if ok continue.
      (If not shut off vac and go to step#12, this is critical)

21) If all is well, start filling with water.
      (DO NOT SHUT OFF VACUUM or you'll get wrinkles!!!)

22) Continue to fill until at least 1" of water covers the entire bottom of pool.

23) Shut off shop vac! (Finally!)

24) Reassemble seat clamps, pool ledges, top plates and top rail.
       (while removing clothes pins)
      For beaded liners, skip this step and go to step #25.

25) Continue filling pool until two feet of water covers the entire bottom of pool.
 
26) Remove all duct taped seals. (return and feed lines, steps, etc..)

27) Install all skimmers, returns, lights, etc..,
      (find at least two holes per item and punch out with awl).
      (This will help with alignment)
      Now populate all screw holes, tighten evenly.

28) Carefully cut out all liner material from gasketed areas.
      (returns, skimmers, lights, etc..)
 
29) Hook up filtration system and any accessories.

30) Fill to appropriate operational level.

31) Add your start up chemicals.

32) Enjoy!!!

Required Tools and Supplies:

1) Duct tape
2) Shop vac
3) Soft bristled push broom
4) Tape measure
5) Extension cord
6) Awl or punch
7) Screwdrivers
8) Razor knife
9) Sump pump
10) Wooden spring-loaded clothes pins
11) Garden hose
12) Possibly five gallon pail
13) Possibly landscaping rake
14) Possibly pre-washed masonary sand
15) Possibly flat shovel
16) Possible mortar mix


My Background in this Industry:
I was raised in a family who has had a long history in the Swimming Pool Industry. For example, my grandfather was Chief Engineer for Muskin Pools for years, (back when they started business in Wilkes-Barre Pennsylvania), and he eventually became the Chief Operations Manager. Subsequently, Muskin employed my grandmother, mother, uncles, and father for many years to follow. In fact, my father was one of the first on ground pool installers who traveled throughout the U.S.A. installing pools for Muskin Pool customers. I even remember when I was twelve years old, my cousin and I would help our fathers install pools locally in Northeast Pennsylvania!

At the age of sixteen I decided to install pools during my schools summer vacation. I ran my own installation crew for Olympic Pools. I enjoyed it and people were quite surprised as to the quality of work a bunch of kids did! Since that time I have installed pools for Prestige Pools, Northeast Pools, Quality Pools, Poseidon Pools, and naturally for myself.

Over the years I have learned how to Install and repair swimming pools the correct way, the best way, and the most cost effective way. None of which degrades from the other. However, over the years I have also witnessed shrewd salesmen giving false information to customers in order to profit. Additionally, I have seen incompetent installers perform shoddy work and take advantage of their customers for the same purpose. Therefore, I am writing this article so that people can perform these tasks for their selves, or at least have the proper information to know if their pool related project is being done correctly.

Enjoy your summer, and stay cool!

Email: Questions@BubbasPools.com

 
This article is provided to you by Daniel Osko of Bubbas Pools and More! See our website, bubbaspools.com for additional information, forums, how to guides, pictures, products and more.

Please help support my free information and technical support

Thanks to everyone!
Danny Osko




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Comments on this article:


» left by Sebastian Kaupert from Brooklyn, NY (127 days 15 hours ago.)
Reader Rating: 4.5 out of 5
Have a 12' A/G that is 9 years old. It's generally in excellent shape. The liner got punctured at the bottom, about 3 feet from the wall towards the center. The hole is about the size of a dime.
 
The pool sits on a (perfectly) level structure of pressure treated wood on top of slightly sloped concrete ground. The lightweight sand mix underneath the liner is of course wet at this point. (water is draining very slowly).
 
I assume that it is essential to get the base dry again to prevent the wood from rotting prematurely. This in turn would require complete removal of the liner, drying the base, and installation of a new liner. Is this assumption correct or could I simply patch the hole and be ok?
 
Looking at 20mil plain blue liners for around $60-$70. Don't care for prints. Does that sound right? What are the specs of a reliable liner? Any recommendations for a make or source?
 
Thank you very much for your help, and the outstanding instructions at the top!
 
Sebastian

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (19,080)
Daniel Osko
(127 days 14 hours ago.)

Hi Sebastian,
 
You are correct about allowing the sand to dry to point whereas it is not "soupy".  Damp is OK for a new install but probably not for your wooden platform. 
 
If you want to use your existing liner it is still possible if you can push the liner to the wall, in the area where the pool wall meets the pool base cove.  If you cannot... your liner needs to be replaced.
 
If you want to patch your liner...
 

Hole in Floor of Pool Liner

1) Using clear vinyl patch material or a piece of liner, cut a patch, which is at least two inches larger than the hole.

 

2) Round the corners of the patch.  This will help the patch from curling up.

 

3) Evenly apply Pool Glue to the entire patch.  (The type that comes in a metal can).

 

4) Evenly press patch to the waterside of the liner and hold for at least 5 minutes or until the patch is firmly adhered to the pool liner.

 

5) Weigh patch down to liner using a rubber mat and something heavy.  Let the weight(s) sit for an hour.

 

6) Remove mat and weight(s) and inspect patch for curling.  Re-glue corners if necessary.
 
 
Replacement Liner Quality
 
1) Be certain that your liner is 100% Virgin Vinyl Material, not re-processed.
 
2) Be sure that your liner is TRUE Mil, not the thinner gauge or embossed.
 
3) Be certain that your liner contains UV and Fungal inhibitors.
 
I doubt that a $70.00 liner could ever be a quality liner.
 
Hope this Helps, 
Dan Osko
Bubbas Pools
 

Respond to this comment
» left by Sebastian from Brooklyn, NY (126 days 12 hours ago.)
Thank you very much Dan! This is more helpful input and direction than I could have hoped for.

Now I'll have to drain the pool and see what happens with the liner after drying out the sand. I'm not sure how age factors into this, but since the liner is 9 years old (it came with the pool), I'm preparing myself for having to replace it.

I looked on your website for a pool liner that meets your specs, and unfortunately can only find printed liners. (Sorry, but we're a bit picky about aesthetics, and prefer a plain blue liner over any of the printed patterns). Do you sell a plain blue liner 12ft/48" overlap, new vinyl, etc., even though it's not listed on your site?

Thank you,

Sebastian

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (19,080)
Daniel Osko
(126 days 9 hours ago.)

Hell Sebastian,
 
Your most welcome.
 
I don't normally sell blue liners, but I can get you a quality one if you would like.  Just email me at the address listed at the end of this article, and I can give you a price tomorrow.
 
Thanks,
Danny
Bubbas Pools

Respond to this comment
» left by Sebastian from Brooklyn, NY (119 days 11 hours ago.)
Hi Danny,

I have now drained the pool, and the liner seems to be ok to be installed again. It hasn't even really pulled away from the cove, which may be a result of being installed originally with too much slack (by A/G pool installer)

Got replacement seals for skimmer and return. Only glue I was able to get comes in a tube, and is called 'Leakmaster' by Anderson. It contains Methyl Ethyl Ketone, and is a nitrile rubber based sealant. 

Not sure how that relates to the glue "in a metal can" you referred to, but I did wonder if what you recommended was simply PVC glue that is also used for PVC pipe?!!

I will now take out the liner, let the base dry, and proceed to follow your instructions for repair and re-install.

Should it turn out that I need a new liner, I'll send you a note for the price.

Thank you,

Sebastian


Respond to this comment

» left by John Donough from okemos, michigan (125 days 13 hours ago.)
Reader Rating: 5 out of 5
I just installed a 27" round AG with an overlap liner. The liner was flat on the bottom (no wrinkles) and there was apprx 7 inches of liner overlapping. It was 80 degrees and we starfted filling the water, which shortly there after stopped due to a power outage. 5 hours later we were able to continue filling the pool. The temperature dropped drastically and I lost daylight. As the pool filled during the night it pulled a 6' section out of the track and pretty evenly everywhere else. Is there a way to salvage this without removing the 3' of water I already was able to fill? What in your professional opinion is the BEST solution to this? Thanks for your time, JOhn

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (19,080)
Daniel Osko
(124 days 22 hours ago.)

Hi John,
If your liner has pulled over the pool wall either one or both of the following conditions has happened.

1) Your Swimming Pool Structure is not perfectly shaped.  Take measurements to confirm or exclude this condition.

 2) Your liner is not centered within the pool structure.  This will allow for more liner on one side and less liner on the opposite side of the pool.
 
Since this is a NEW liner, I would drain the pool and re-center the liner.  Follow this articles directions.
 
Hope this helps,
Dan Osko
Bubbas Pools
 
 

Respond to this comment

» left by Anonymous (117 days 1 hour ago.)
Our pool is 3 years old 33x18 OVAL with a curtain drain around the entire pool for drainage . one side is installed level with ground the other built into the side of a 4 ft hill . Already changed liner once (the first year ).No CHARGE FOR THE NEW LINER EXCEPT FOR THE WATER TO REFILL IT ! The liner at the bottom of the wall at the point where the upright support stands on the CONCRETE BLOCK ( concrete block punctured )CUT THROUGH LINER (The pool installer never saw what I saw Lol...The fact that it was never properly graded and the water would pool up around one side so I dug out a curtain drain ! When water erosion pulled away the sand from under the pool it tore a hole in the liner !! They fixed it ..But blamed Grub's !!! Now the same side has an impression ! All ALONG THE WHOLE LENGTH 4 " wide one to two inches deep.The sand totally washed away from the length of the Poolnow all concrete pads are able to puncture the liner  WHAT SHOULD I DO WAIT FOR IT TO LEAK AND STAY OFF AREA - OR REMOVE LINER AND ADD SAND AND level AREA .AGAIN !!!!. 2 Years ago I  INSTALLED A CURTAIN DRAIN AROUND THE PERIMETER 1 FOOT DEEP FILLED WITH GRAVEL AND 4 INCH BK PLASTIC DRAIN .WHAT IS HAPPENING HERE , I WOULD LOVE TO SHOW PICTURES ......CAN YOU PLEASE HELP .If you are looking from outside the pool there is nothing visibly wrong ...the dirt around the base is fine not washed away but from inside the pool there is visible damage ???&;Thank you Mike

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (19,080)
Daniel Osko
(116 days 22 hours ago.)

Hello Mike,
 
Sounds like your drainage system is installed incorrectly.  Please see the following:
  

Swimming Pool Drain Tile & Sand Washout Conditions

If your Pool Base Sand is soft and/or washing out… follow these instructions to determine a solution:

 1) All Above Ground Swimming Pools must have a minimum of 6” of packed earth, in a triangular shape, covering the Pool Wall Bottom Rails.  This Earth should be packed against the exterior perimeter of the pool wall.  This will help prevent water from lying against the pool wall and subsequently flowing under the Pool Wall Rails and washing out your Pool Base Sand. 

 2) If your drainage situation requires you to install drain tile… be certain to install the tile as follows:

a)     Keep Drain Tile a couple of feet away from the Pool Wall.

b)     There should be plain earth, NOT STONE, between the Pool Wall and Drain Tile Trench.

c)      Excavate a trench that slopes from the high side to the low sides of pool structure.

d)     Keep the bottom of the trench at least one foot above the height of the Bottom Rails.

e)     Place Drain Tile into the EARTH BASED Trench with the hole-side facing upward.

f)        Cover half of the Drain Tile with EARTH and pack.

g)     Now fill the rest of the trench with #2 Stone up to or close to the top of the trench.

h)      Landscape as desired.

i)       NEVER BACKFILL A POOL WITH PLAIN STONE!  It will provide an easy
         path for the water to travel to your Pool Wall Bottom Rails and wash out your
         sand
 
Get this fixed first, Before you attempt to fix the Pool Base.
 
Hope this helps,
Dan Osko
Bubbas Pools

Respond to this comment

» left by Darlene Helton from Pineville, KY (116 days 13 hours ago.)
Reader Rating: 1 out of 5
Your advise on installing pool liners was a big help for us, this was the first time we had ever installed a pool liner ourselves and the info you put online made it so much easier to do...Thanks!!!
 
The Heltons
Pineville, KY

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (19,080)
Daniel Osko
(116 days 13 hours ago.)

Hi Darlene,
 
Your always welcome, and I'm always here to help.
 
Best Regards,
Danny
Bubbas Pools
 
 

Respond to this comment

» left by Dave from Massachusetts (97 days 9 hours ago.)
Reader Rating: 4.5 out of 5
Hello Danny,
 
I installed my 18X 33' pool myself. The soil was contaminated with glass,
 
metal, and other debris. I thought I cleared it out - though I realize not well
 
enough. I have 4 patches and see 3 more pinholes. So I have to replace
 
the liner. I want to ask your recommendations about "bottom liners" Which ones work the best? Do you recommend them? If so does have this material make it more tricky to get a wrinkle free floor?
 
Thank you for your time
 
Dave
 
(massachusetts

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (19,080)
Daniel Osko
(97 days 4 hours ago.)

Hi Dave,
 
Typically I do not recommend a ground pad, especially when the earth is debris free and the proper pool base sand is used.  However, in your case, I would definatly recommend purchasing the material.  When installing, you can install it between the earth and sand OR you could place the ground pad over the sand and  duct tape it to the wall and THEN install your pool base cove over it.  (This will help prevent the pad from bunching up when you install your liner).
 
PS. Make certain that you use Pre-washed Masonry Sand, NOT Play Sand for the Pool Base.
 
Hope this Helps,
Danny
Bubbas Pools
 

Respond to this comment

» left by JC from Webster, FL (86 days 15 hours ago.)
Reader Rating: 5 out of 5
Daniel is 'right on' with his instructions!  My husband and I installed a new liner with no previous knowledge.  We could NOT have done it without his detailed outline.  Thank you so very much.  The pool looks GREAT!

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (19,080)
Daniel Osko
(82 days 16 hours ago.)

Hey JC,
 
Glad to hear it. Your welcome.
 
Danny
 
Bubbas Pools

Respond to this comment

» left by Michelle Stokes from Sussex UK (82 days 22 hours ago.)
Reader Rating: 1 out of 5
HI, we have an AB 30 by 15 pool which we had installed 5 years ago. This summer the base collapsed and the liner came away from the sides (It is a beaded liner) We removed the liner and examined the base which was sand that has now washed away leaving an uneven surface. Our garden is sloped so one end of the pool is level with the earth and the other is approx 2ft lower. From reading your advice I think that rainwater has washed away the sand causing the collapse as the installers surrounded the pool with decorative aggregate. The liner is damaged beyond repair but I would be grateful for some advice as to what can be done to salvage the base.

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (19,080)
Daniel Osko
(82 days 16 hours ago.)

Hi Michelle.
 
Please contact me privately and I will send you instructions on installing drain tile.
 
Best Regards,
 
Dan Osko
 
Bubbas Pools

Respond to this comment

» left by Anonymous (80 days 16 hours ago.)
Reader Rating: 3 out of 5
was alright...was confusing at times...

Respond to this comment

» left by Monique from Ontario Canada (69 days 5 hours ago.)
hi, we have a 33x18 above ground pool which was installed 1 year ago professionally. We were actually wondering if it would be a good idea to have a "second return" installed at the other end of the pool to improve the water circulation since the pool is so large. Is this recommended, and if so, how could we go about doing it?

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (19,080)
Daniel Osko
(61 days 6 hours ago.)

Hello Monique,
 
Please contact me privately and I will send you the information you requested.
 
Thanks,
 
Dan Osko
Bubbas Pools

Respond to this comment
» left by Daniel Osko (19,080)
Daniel Osko
(55 days 12 hours ago.)

Hi Monique,
 
I just emailed you the complete instructions that you'll need to install your new second inground pool return.
 
Hope it helps,
 
Danny
Bubbas Pools

Respond to this comment

» left by Anonymous (30 days 10 hours ago.)
Reader Rating: 5 out of 5
Awesome article! Very clear directions! Thanks

Respond to this comment

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