What to look for when buying a Router Table

How much router table should I buy?

Items

• Basic
• Miter track and T-track
• Sliding tables, raised panel
• Inserts plain, deluxe, aluminum
• Dust collection
• Large verses bench
• Space saving extensions

Intro

Buying a router table can be a confusing experience. Which one do you need? Which size, how many features do I really need? What’s the difference between tables? In this article we will discuss features to look for and tables you can eliminate in your search. Keep in mind most people think they should have more table than they really need. This is usually the same case for routers. So what are the features out there? Let’s take a look.

Features

Router tables come in many basic packages. You usually can find router tables in two basic sizes bench top and full size. Bench top tables are usually purchased because the user has a lack of shop space. Bench top tables can be stored under workbenches and still handle a variety of chores. Most are made of metal or aluminum but they are a few wooden ones as well. Let’s take tables in general and discuss features and break them down into their basic components and then talk about the pros and cons of each.

Tops

Made of Metal, wood, MDF, plastic, Phenolic

Inserts

Not all tables have inserts. Inserts are made so that you can attach the router to them and then install the insert into the top. This is so that bit changing is made simple. When you want to change a router bit you pull the router and insert together up through the table and change your bit. If you table has no insert you have to attach the router directly to the top thus making bit changes more difficult since you would have to remove the router from the top to change the bit. Insert can be made of Phenolic (acrylic or aluminum)

Miter slots

Miter slots are an advanced feature. They can be used for a variety of things. The most common use is for a coping sled to slide along the mitre slot. The coping sled gives the user a very stable platform in which to cut stile and rail joinery for raised cabinet doors. Cutting these cuts without a coping sled or mitre slot is very difficult and somewhat dangerous. You can also use a miter gauge to fit in the miter slot. There are also several feather boards that fit in standard mitre slots.

T-track

T-track is very popular on router tops because it gives a way for router fences to be held down and adjusted on the router top. They are usually milled into the top and are flush to the top. T-track can also be installed on the fence front face to be used in conjunction with stop blocks.

Dust Ports

Dust ports on router tables are very handy to keep the table clean while working. You can usually find them in 3 basic sizes. Shop Vac, 2 ½" and 4" Shop Vac sizes obviously are designed to fit shop vac attachments. These are not popular and you will not find many of these. The standard dust hoses are 2 ½ and 4". Ports that fit these two sizes fit standard dust collection systems. Once you have dust collection attached and operational on your system, you will wonder how you lived without it. It is a definite advantage.

Starting pins

Starting pins fit in router inserts and are generally used to help start wood onto the bit when free hand profiling on a table.

Table thickness

Generally the thinnest tables are aluminum tables. The increased strength of the aluminum lends itself to being thinner thus lighter.

You can find MDF tables in a variety of thickness. They are ¾" 1 1/8" 1 ½ and 2"

¾" thick tables are the standard thickness of store bought MDF. If you buy one of these tables make sure both sides of the table are laminated. This prevents flexing of the top and throwing it out of true flatness. MDF is a great material because it is very flat. The 1 1/8" size seems like a weird size, but MDF manufacturers make that size standard for the cabinet and countertop industry. 1 1/8^th is a pretty thick top you may or may not need the bottom to have some sort of lamination. It really depends on the climate you live in. If you live in seasonal areas such as the Midwest, I would recommend having both sides laminated. But this is not always necessary. Also if your hanging a big heavy 3 HP router on the top, you might consider lamination on the bottom. Again it depends on what you’re doing. 1 ½" thick tops are very heavy duty. The need for lamination on the bottom is futile since these tops are so thick. If the MDF is glued together (two ¾" pieces) the stability is increased due to the gluing process. MDF is small particles glued together and form into perfect tops, making them thicker decreases the chance of any flexing or warping of your top. The one draw back is that they are heavy. But with heaviness comes stability. Ask anyone that has a heavy cast iron table saw if they love the stability that comes with it and you may not leave his shop for a while until he tells you all the great things about it. 2" thick models are even thicker and are just as stable as their 1 ½ inch counterparts. Again more weight. Worth mentioning is the way that all three of these tops are edge treated. Most manufactures add an edge treatment with a T-molding. This is a rubber edge that is glued around the edge of the table. The manufacturing process of this treatment is simple thus making it widely available. T-molding is installed by a shallow rabbit routed around the perimeter of the top. Then the molding has a small tenon that fits into the rabbet or groove routed into the table. Some people argue that this weakens the top. It really depends on the thickness of the top On thinner tops I can see how the argument has more value. On thicker tops, the argument does not go far. By far the best looking edge treatment is real hardwood. Not only does it look excellent but it adds more rigidity to the top itself. Having a nice thick ¾ “of hardwood around the edge is also handy if you ever want to attach something to your table.

Fences

There are two schools of design on fences. Fixed one piece fences and split fences.

Each has their advantages and each have preferences to the woodworker.

Fixed Fence

Fixed fences are generally used with bits that have no profile bearing on the top. Using the fixed fence allows the user to adjust the exact distance from the bit to the fence. A good example of this is if you were going to rout a groove down the middle of a board. You would want to have the groove in an exact location. Fixed fences are also good with profile bearing bits even though the fence is not intrical to the operation. The fence holds the dust port in the ideal position to collect dust. The profile bit determines the distance of the wood to the edge of the bit. A good example of this would be a roundover bit which cuts a round over on the edge of a board.

Split fences

Split fences are generally used when you have larger bits. The ability to move the fence to accommodate the size of the bit allows you to have the fence right up to the edge of the bit. If you are making raised panel doors, you will be using different size bits thus needing the flexibility of and adjustable fence. You can use the split fence with profile bits as well. You can now use your router table as a jointer. This is now growing in popularity, but it is limited. If you were interested in this application, you would need a split fence UNLESS you had a fixed fence that was solely dedicated to being a jointer fence. This would mena you would need two fixed fences which is fine.

Stop blocks

Stop blocks are handy to have if your routing material that has to stop at a certain point. I find this feature nice but not necessarily essential since I can clamp any piece of scrap wood to a fence and thus create a cheap replica that functions the same.

So now you have all these features let’s look at some of the common sizes out there

Bench top

Larger Bench top

Full Size

Advanced

Bench tops are generally sized from 12" deep to 20 and 17 wide to 24" wide. Keep in mind that not all bench tops have a standard sized miter track if at all. Look for bench tops that have inserts installed and a nice fence. Also look for bench tops that have at least 12 inches from the bottom on the insert to the table. This allows for greater flexibility of router sizes. You generally don’t use big 3 HP routers on bench top tables.

Larger Benchtops

Usually measure 15 x 24 and have more features. They are more heavy duty to standard bench top sizes. They can have the ugraded mitre slots and t-tracks or be plain. These heavier tables can accomidate any size router.

Full size

These generally measure 24" by 32" The main advantage of the size is being able to router longer material with more surface availability. Shorter tables might require making some sort of support on the outflow of the table. Full size tables also generally have more features. You can find both types of fences on full size tops. Full size tops usually sit on a wood or metal base. Look for a good stable heavy design.

Advanced

These are usually tops that are designed with special purposes. You can find horizontal tables, pin router tables, and sliding tables. Sliding tables are a unique table that offers a very clever sliding miter much like a sliding table on a table saw. These tables eliminate the need for a coping sled and are top quality if you’re thinking about cutting a lot of stiles and rails. All these tables fetch higher prices but are also jam packed with features and dust collection. Most but not all, are made of aluminum but are larger and incorporate unique features.

Average prices (new)

Small Bench tops $69 to $129

Larger Bench tops $89 to $169

Full Size $129 to $300

Advanced $350 and up

FAQ’s

1. Can you buy large tops with no miter slots?

Yes you can, you might have to look harder or ask for some custom work. Having the slot is not all bad you may advance later down the line.

2. What’s better Aluminum or Acrylic inserts?

Some people claim aluminum does not flex at all. I have never seen an acrylic insert flex, so it would come down to user preference. There is a price difference.

3. What are the larger routers used for?

Larger routers are generally used for heavier duty applications. However I can get everything done that needs to be done with my 2 HP router. The key is not to take large chunks at a time but to take small passes with small amounts. If you do this large routers do not have the advantage. Larger routers are good if you need features that larger routers have such as speed control. You would want that if you use large diameter router bits.

4. How heavy is a standard 1 ½ thick large top?

The top weighs about 48 pounds

5. What kind of lamination should I look for?

You want a high quality horizontal work surface laminate. Melamine is not what your looking for. It qualifies as a good vertical work surface. (shelf sides etc)

6. Who makes the best tops?

Look for a manufacture that you feel comfortable with (their reputation). Just because the popular catalog merchants carry all the different brands does not make them the best, they are the merely the best marketed tables. You can find plenty of manufactures on the internet and even EBay. Look for someone that you can ask questions too, if they are a salesman, then the chances are not good they are woodworkers. If you buy from a woodworker, you get the best chance the features were well thought out. (www.theroutermaniac.com)

7. What’s a good way to attach MDF tops to stands?

You can do this in a variety of ways depending on how thick the top is. If you have a thin top (3/4" or less) you might want to think about glue rather than screwing into the top. If you have a thicker top using threaded inserts is an excellent idea. Also I have seen several tops that have a cleat screwed into the top which then screws or bolts to the stand.

8. What’s the difference between an offset table and a standard table?

An offset table is designed primarily for two purposes. It is either attached to your table saw or used as a stand alone table with a special jig. An offset table attached to your table saw is a great space saver. However you have to have the offset, or the cutout portion where the router sits, facing the width instead of facing the length. This allows you to use your table saw fence if you desire but also allows you to work without the possibility of being inhibited by any part of the saw. Some table saw extensions have special fences as well, it is mostly user choice. Most of the time the miter track is eliminated since it would have to run on the width portion of the board which in turn would terminate at the fence. You would not be able to slide a coping sled or miter jig into the slot without hitting the fence guide of the table saw. The other use would the offset table used with a special jig. A great example of this would be an Incra jig. Incra jigs operate on using a jig to precisely control the fence and allow you to move it in increments. Generally these jigs take up more room and you need to mount them in an offset table to be able to have room for them to work.

9. Why does the leg height of a bench top table make a difference?

If your using a smaller router (1 ¾ Hp and smaller) it should not make too much difference. However there is always the exception. Larger routers stand taller. If you measure the distance from the bottom of the bench top to the actual workbench, this distance should be larger than the height of the router. This is obvious for mounting purposes, since you want to be able to fit it under the table, but it is also good for cooling purposes. You want the router to be able to get a lot of air and have a place to expel the woodchips without sucking them into the intake of the router.

If you have more questions not addressed here, feel free to email me directly at Ken@theroutermaniac.com

or go to www.theroutermaniac.com